Sports Bulletin Report
Bern (Switzerland): Mori Ai became the first Japanese climber to win a Lead World Championships title in the World Championship that concluded in Bern the capital city of Switzerland.
WOMEN’S LEAD
Mori Ai becomes the first Japanese climber to win a Lead World Championships title – man or woman
Slovenia’s Janja Garnbret wins silver, her ninth World Championships medal in total
Both Mori and Garnbret top the route, so the better semi-final performance hands Mori the win
The 2021 champion Seo Chaehyun (KOR) takes bronze
4th – Mia Krampl (SLO), 5th – Brooke Raboutou (USA), 6th – Jessica Pilz (AUT), 7th – Laura Rogora (ITA), 8th – Nonaka Miho (JPN), 9th – Molly Thompson-Smith (GBR)
Nine finalists, usually eight, as a tie for eighth in semi-finals put an extra climber through
MEN’S LEAD
Austria’s Jakob Schubert defends his Lead world title – his fourth in total, a record for men
Schubert’s tenth World Championships gold in total and is the oldest world champion, man or woman
Anraku Sorato (JPN) wins a silver medal on his senior debut
Alexander Megos wins his third World Championships medal claiming bronze
4th – Lee Dohyun (KOR), 5th – Yurikusa Ao (JPN), 6th - Paul Jenft (FRA), 7th – Sean Bailey (USA), 8th – Adam Ondra (CZE), 9th – Toby Roberts (GBR), 10th – Song Yunchan (KOR)
Ten finalists, usually eight, as a three way tie for the eighth position extended the finals start list
Mori Ai (JPN) – women’s Lead World Champion
“Before climbing I told myself to just enjoy it, so it was an exciting time. I knew maybe Janja got a top, so I knew I had too as well. I was nervous before, but now I’m happy.”
Jakob Schubert (GER) - men’s Lead World Champion
“This field is so crazy strong, I knew I had to have the climb of my life to win this world championship title again. I feel like the Lead field is stronger than ever. The emotions are crazy right now.
“It means so much to challenge one of the craziest talents we have in the sport with Anraku Sorato. He is such an amazing climber and if I can teach him a thing or two it would make me so proud. Maybe I will tell my kids about it, I don’t have any now of course, but I can say I taught him a little bit and now he wins everything. You see also Toby [Roberts], super strong young climbers, coming out on top tonight ahead of them means so much to me.
“After being on the circuit for so long you know even better how to live these moments, and I’m living it right now. Winning in this arena is something you never forget.”
