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CLIMBING - Int News 17 Jun, 2023

Climbing News: Innsbruck Crowns Anraku Sorato as New Boulder King

Sports Bulletin ReportInnsbruck (Austria):-The sixth and last Boulder competition of the International Federation of Sport Climbing (IFSC) World Cup Series 2023 concluded at the Kletterzentrum in Innsbruck, Austria.Earning himself the headline of the night was Japanese rising start Anraku Sorato, who, at 16 years old, was able to pocket both his first World Cup gold medal, and the men’s Boulder 2023 title.Sorato, who previously won silver at this year’s IFSC World Cup in Salt Lake City, Utah, USA, climbed atop the podium with a performance made of three tops and three zones, but also being very close solve problem number three – a creative slab featuring a run-start and a 180° spin.Following in silver-medal position was Japan’s Narasaki Meichi – younger brother of Olympian and multiple-medal winner Tomoa. Differently from Anraku, Narasaki managed to solve the slab – securing the top with only a couple of seconds left on the clock – but scored zero on boulder number two, eventually finishing with three tops, three zones, and four attempts to top more than his teammate.Making his first appearance in a World Cup final round, Sam Avezou of France put the icing on his cake by winning bronze with two tops and two zones. South Korea’s Chon Jongwon barely missed the podium, finishing in fourth position with two tops, two zones, and a higher number of attempts than Avezou.Coming from first and fourth places in the semi-final round, respectively, Belgium’s Simon Lorenzi and Nicolas Collin closed in the bottom two positions. Collin concluded fifth with two tops and two zones, while Lorenzi took sixth place with no score on the board.Making his night even more memorable, Anraku Sorato was also awarded with the men’s Boulder season trophy, having surpassed South Korea’s Lee Dohyun with the 1,000 points he took in Innsbruck. Lee eventually placed second, and Narasaki Tomoa followed in third place.

CLIMBING - Int News 15 Jun, 2023

IFSC News: Raboutou Leads Stellar Lineup into Women’s Boulder Final

Sports Bulletin ReportInnsbruck (Austria):-Raboutou led stellar lineup into Women’s Boulder Final of the International Federation of Sport Climbing (IFSC) World Cup Innsbruck 2023 closed with the women’s Boulder semi-final round, selecting the top six athletes advancing into night’s final.Signing off with a fantastic four-tops performance was Tokyo 2020 Olympian Brooke Raboutou, of the USA, who was the only climber able to top all four boulders in the round, despite a consistent number of attempts.Raboutou – who podiumed at the three previous World Cups she participated in in 2023, collecting one gold and two bronzes – was joined by her friend and teammate Natalia Grossman – current leader of the women’s Boulder World Cup ranking, and winner of the season trophy in 2021 and 2022.“Semi-final was hard. It felt a bit weird doing qualification in the morning and then semi-final in the evening, especially as we competed a few days ago,” she said, after finishing fifth with three tops and four zones. “Mentally I’m trying to allow myself breaks because it is tiring just being in competition mood for a week. It doesn’t need to be long breaks, even just between qualifiers and semis I tried not to think about climbing at all and try to disconnect a little, I guess.”Just ahead of Grossman placed current Olympic Champion Janja Garnbret, who beat the buzzer on problem number three, and was only able to secure the zone on the fourth one – the slab.“I enjoyed it a lot, especially beating the buzzer on the second boulder which was so nice. I don’t think I’ve ever had that in my entire life. I had less than 30 seconds probably and I thought about heading back in, but then I just thought to myself ‘let’s give it a go’, and luckily it worked out for me,” said Garnbret.“I’m just so excited to be back. I had around eight months out, and my first competition back was in Prague, I’m still trying to get my competition flow, so I’m just enjoying things at the moment. I still don’t feel completely comfortable on slabs because I couldn’t do them in the past months, so I’m still trying to find the balance and feeling again.”Second and third place in the round were taken by Japanese duo Ito Futaba and Nonaka Miho, respectively, both with the same score as Grossman and Garnbret – three tops and four zones – but lower numbers of attempts to top.Ito said: “It was good. The boulders were so fun. I feel good now and I’m really enjoying the boulders here. I’m excited for the final and I hope I can get a medal, but everyone in the final is really strong so it’s not going to be easy.”

CLIMBING - Int News 08 Jun, 2023

IFSC World Cup Events: Brixen to host sixth event on June 9

Sports Bulletin ReportBrixen (Italy):-With the International Federation of Sport Climbing (IFSC) World Cup events coming thick and fast, the circuit moves on to Brixen, Italy, for the sixth event of the season from 9 to 11 June 2023.Taking place at the Vertikale Kletterzentrum Brixen for the second consecutive year, the focus is once again on Boulder as the climbers move from Prague, Czech Republic, last weekend to Northern Italy this weekend.In the men’s competition, last year’s gold medallist Yannick Flohé of Germany will be joined by silver medallist Maximillian Milne of Great Britain and Narasaki Tomoa of Japan who took bronze.The three are among 96 competitors registered to start, a start list that also includes South Korea’s 20-year-old Lee Dohyun, who was on fire last week taking the IFSC World Cup Prague title, and the man he beat to gold, Adam Ondra from the Czech Republic.Just like the men, the women’s 2022 podium is in attendance with gold medallist Natalia Grossman of the USA, silver medallist Hannah Meul of Germany and bronze medallist Luo Zhilu of China among the 86 registered entrants.Looking to carry on medal winning ways will be France’s Flavy Cohaut who makes the trip from Prague with a World Cup bronze as part of her luggage.There will be a fair bit of local interest for the home crowds with the Italian team fielding 13 climbers in Brixen.One of those is 21-year-old Camilla Moroni. Moroni has experienced standing on a podium in Brixen when she won silver at the Youth European Championships in 2019, but the Italian climber is focussing on a different goal than medals.

CLIMBING - Int News 08 Jun, 2023

IFSC approves New Competition format for Chengdu World Games 2025

Sports Bulletin ReportTorino (Italy):-The International Federation of Sport Climbing (IFSC) has announced that the competition format for Sport Climbing at The World Games Chengdu have been approved and will be included a new individual event, scheduled to take place from August 7 to 17, 2023 Chengdu, China.For the very first time, there will be three separate Speed events for men and women that will feature the new individual four-lane competition alongside the team four-lane event, which was first introduced at the Asian Games Jakarta-Palembang 2018 and will also be part of the programme for the Asian Games Hangzhou 2022 slated to take place later this year.Both events will join the traditional individual two-lane competition and will see a total of 36 female and 36 male athletes competing across the six medal events.IFSC President Scolaris said:“The appetite for Sport Climbing around the world is growing, and especially the Speed discipline throughout the Asian region. With The World Games 2025 in China, it is a perfect opportunity to showcase some new formats of Speed climbing at a top-class multi-sport event.“We are predominantly an individual sport, but now everyone watching will be treated to some fast and furious racing with a rare opportunity for the athletes to win and share medals alongside their international teammates.”Sport Climbing has been a part of The World Games programme since 2005, when the event took place in Duisburg, Germany. That event included Speed and Lead disciplines. For the last two editions of the event in 2017 and 2022, Boulder was also included.The decision reached by the IFSC and the IWGA Executive Committee to include only Speed disciplines in the programme for 2025 is based on several important factors, including popularity, sustainability, cost efficiency, and the growth of Sport Climbing.

CLIMBING - Int News 05 Jun, 2023

IFSC News: French teenager, Oriane Bertone wins first gold in World Cup

Sports Bulletin ReportPrague (Czech Republic):-The French teenager girl Oriane Bertone won the first-ever gold medal in the International Federation of Sport Climbing (IFSC) World Cup Series 2023 that concluded here on Sunday.France’s 18-year-old climber Oriane Bertone, seeded sixth at the end of the semi-final round, upset the entire field of competitors and took the first World Cup gold medal of her career. On her way to the top of the podium, Bertone flashed two out four boulders, also topping W1 at the second try, and concluding with three tops and four zones.Gold medalist Oriane Bertone said:“I knew that if didn’t try boulder number 4 at my best, my coach would have killed me. I knew I had to take the zone to win, and when I did, I saw my coaches go crazy, but I wanted my competition to be complete, so I had to stay concentrated. It was amazing, one of the best feelings I ever had. I love Flavy, she’s my friend and my teammate, and I’m so happy to be on the podium with her”.French national coach, Nico Jaunel said:“It’s been a great event, and a great season. We have a young team and we work very hard to make these results possible. Today, with Janja Garnbret coming back, it was not easy, so we are very happy to have two athletes on the podium, very happy for them. It’s good to see that our hard work is paying off.”The IFSC World Cup Prague 2023 kicked off a three-week long series of events that will continue in Brixen, Italy, from June 9 to 11, and Innsbruck, Austria, from 14 to 18 June.

CLIMBING - Int News 04 Jun, 2023

IFSC News: Lee Dohyun wins gold medal in World Cup Series Pargue

Sports Bulletin ReportPrague (Czech Republic):-Lee Dohyun has lifted the first gold medal in the International Federation of Sport Climbing (IFSC) World Cup Prague 2023, as the six finalists of the men’s Boulder event on the stage of the prestigious climbing fixture.20-year-old Lee Dohyun from South Korea overcame all four problems in the round, flashing three of them. Also finishing with four tops was the crowd’s favourite, Adam Ondra of the Czech Republic, who eventually placed behind Lee because of a higher number of attempts to top.“I can’t believe it, I’m just so happy,” said an emotional Lee just before the medal ceremony. “Thank you all for the support,” he then concluded, turning towards the crowd.“It’s been so nice to be back on the circuit, especially in my home country. It’s been 13 years since the last World Cup event in Czechia, and the only one I participated in was in my hometown of Brno, when I was 16 and I barely missed the final, it was so frustrating, so this is a good revenge!” said Ondra.It is Lee’s first-ever World Cup medal, and Ondra’s 15th World Cup podium in the Boulder discipline.

CLIMBING - Int News 22 May, 2023

IFSC World Cup: Final Gold medals go to Narasaki and Leonardo

Sports Bulletin ReportSalt Lake City (USA):- Narasaki Tomoa from Japan in the men’s Boulder event, and Veddriq Leonardo of Indonesia in the men’s Speed fixture earned the gold medals on the fourth leg of the International Federation of Sport Climbing (IFSC) World Cup Series 2023 concluded tonight in Salt Lake City, Utah, United States of America (USA).Men’s Boulder Event:A spectacular, high-scoring Boulder round amused the crowd that gathered at Pioneer Park on a hot and sunny afternoon. Japanese duo Narasaki Tomoa and Anraku Sorato battled all along the men’s Boulder final, both finishing with four tops, but being separated by a different number of attempts. Indeed, Narasaki flashed both problems number one and four, eventually winning gold with six attempts to top. Competing in his first Boulder final round, Sorato won silver with 12 attempts to top.Also participating in his first Boulder final, Great Britain’s Toby Roberts took bronze with a brilliant performance, only failing to solve the first slab problem, and concluding with three tops, four zones and the bronze medal around his neck. “I am very satisfied with my first gold medal coming in Salt Lake City, and I would like to thank the audience for the amazing support,” said Narasaki.Men’s Speed Event:The fourth and conclusive act of the event was the men’s Speed final, which sealed an exciting week of Paraclimbing and Climbing in Salt Lake City. In the gold medal race, Indonesia’s Veddriq Leonardo signed the fastest time of the round-4.95 seconds. besting China’s Wu Peng, who slipped in the first part of the climb and took silver with 6.99.Leonardo’s teammate Kiromal Katibin overcame a foot injury that occurred early in the knockout round and pocketed the bronze medal. The former world record holder stopped the clock at 4.98, winning the race against crowd favourite Samuel Watson, who ended up in fourth position with 5.98.Leonardo said: “I am very happy and very grateful, because it is my third gold medal here in Salt Lake City. I hope that the next World Cup events can be successful too.”The IFSC World Cup Series 2023 will now move to Europe, where a busy couple of months will bring the best climbers and paraclimbers in the world to compete in Czech Republic, Italy, Austria, Switzerland, and France.

CLIMBING - Int News 19 May, 2023

IFSC World Cup: 251 climbers to participate in a 3-day fixture

Sports Bulletin ReportSalt Lake City (USA): 251 players will fight for the top honours in the two disciplines, Boulder & Speed, of the IFSC World Cup, which will be taken place from May 19 to 21, 2023 at Pioneer Park Salt Lake City Utah United States of America (USA) under the banner of International Federation of Sports Climbing (IFSC).The IFSC World Cup Salt Lake City 2023 will be the 386th World Cup event in the history of IFSC, as the 21st to be held in the USA. The event will feature the 145 men’s and women’s Boulder competitions, and the 131 men’s and women’s Speed competitions.A total, 251 athletes registered to compete including 70 in men’s Boulder, 66 in women’s Boulder, 67 in men’s Speed, and 49 in women’s Speed fixture.

CLIMBING - Int News 18 May, 2023

IFSC Para-climbing World Cup Series concludes in USA

Hosts athletes remain on top with 4 gold, 5 silver, 3 bronze medals in Para-climbingSports Bulletin ReportSalt Lake City (USA):-Hosts athletes won top position with 4 golds, 5 silvers, and 3 bronzes, as the International Federation of Sport Climbing (IFSC) Paraclimbing World Cup Series 2023 concluded here at The Front Climbing Club in Utah, United States of America (USA).France with two golds; Austria with one gold and two silvers; and Romania with one gold and two bronzes finished their journey in the Paraclimbing World Cup Series 2023. Barkan, also a first-time World Cup participant, took silver; and Ionela Grecu of Romania completed the podium in third place.In the men’s B1 Lead event, Aita was followed by Francisco Javier Aguilar Amoedo of Spain and Razvan Nedu of Romania, who respectively won silver and bronze. Alongside Candoi, the men’s B3 podium featured Guillermo Pelegrín Gómez of Spain in second position, and Richard Slocock of Great Britain in third.Current world champion Lucie Jarrige of France picked up where she left off at the end of last season, when she won gold at the two Paraclimbing World Cups she competed in, in Innsbruck, Austria, and Villars, Switzerland. Jarrige dominated the women’s AL2 final, finishing ahead of silver medal winner Sarah Larcombe of Australia, and bronze medal winner Mary Tankersley of the USA.The Brazilian and Norwegian anthems also resounded loud at The Front Climbing Club, thanks to the winning performances of Marina Dias and Dina Eivik in the women’s RP3 and RP2 Lead finals.Dias, supported by a large group of teammates, prevailed with a slight margin over Natalie Vorel of the USA, who won silver. Bronze medal went to Natalie Schaupert of Austria, who also placed very close to her opponents.Eivik took gold in a low-scoring women’s RP2 final, finishing first ahead of silver medallist Emily Seelenfreund of the USA, and bronze medallist Miranda Scott of Canada. Eivik closed with 18+, Seelenfreund scored 15+, Scott with 14+.The second gold medal for Team USA was taken by Brian Zarzuela, who topped the route of the men’s RP2 final and won one of the loudest applauses from the crowd that filled every available space in the venue. Iván Muñoz Escolar of Spain concluded in second place, taking silver, while Philipp Hrozek of Germany placed third and won bronze.After placing second in the women’s AU2 qualification round, France’s Solenne Piret was able to upset the odds and take the sixth World Cup gold of her fantastic career, besting US experienced climber Maureen Back, who was first at the end of qualification, and ended up winning silver. Beck’s teammate Isabel Benvenuti – another first-time World Cup participant – completed the podium in third place.The third and fourth golds of the day for Team USA was signed by Melissa Ruiz and Elliott Nguyen in the women’s and men’s RP1 events. For both, it is the first World Cup win of their career.The women’s RP1 podium also featured Jasmin Plank of Austria in second place, and Marta Peche Salinero of Spain in third. The men’s RP1 podium was completed by silver medal winner Gian Matteo Ramini of Italy, and bronze medal winner Okada Takuya of Japan.

CLIMBING - Int News 17 May, 2023

114 athletes to compete in Para-climbing World Cup

Sports Bulletin ReportSalt Lake City (USA):-As many as 114 athletes from 18 countries are taking part in the first International Federation of Sport Climbing (IFSC) Paraclimbing World Cup, which is getting under way at The Front Climbing Club in Salt Lake City, Utah, USA.A total of 114 athletes are showing their climbing skills in 13 sport classes from 18 country across the world including best climbers in the world travel to Innsbruck, Austria, and Villars, Switzerland, where the most anticipated event of the season will also take place.Indeed, the eighth edition of the IFSC Paraclimbing World Championships is scheduled to commence on 8 August at the PostFinance Arena in Bern, alongside the Climbing World Championships that will award the first set of Olympic quota places for Paris 2024.