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CLIMBING - Int News 23 Apr, 2023

Climbing News: US lad Raboutou wins first ever IFSC Boulder World Cup gold

Sports Bulletin Report Hachioji (Japan): American climber, Brooke Raboutou has won the first ever IFSC World Cup gold medal, as the Germany’s Hannah Meul picked up silver while Japan’s Matsufuji Anon clinched bronze in front of home crowd, her best ever finish in an IFSC Boulder World Cup. Ayala Kerem (ISR) also finished best ever finish in 4th, Luo Zhilu (CHN) was spotted in 5th, and Mia Krampl (SLO) got 6th position, as the final was contested by athletes from six different countries. No competitor in the final had ever won an IFSC Boulder World Cup. The last 17 IFSC World Cup Boulder events have been won by either Natalia Grossman (USA) or Janja Garnbret (SLO). Brooke Raboutou (USA) – Gold medallist “It’s crazy. I feel a lot. It hasn’t really sunk. I knew I had won when I topped the last boulder, but even then, I was like ‘are you sure?’. Most of all I just feel thankful and really happy with my climbing today.” “I called my parents and they are very, very happy. My mum just told me she was really proud of me, but I feel that every day with them anyway. As much as winning a World Cup was a big dream for me, I had to thank my parents because they got me here and they get me up the wall.” Hannah Meul (GER) – Silver medallist “It’s amazing. I’m super happy to start the season like this. It’s definitely the best start. I had the perfect mixture of being nervous, but also confident in my climbing and what I am capable of.” “This competition was the hardest emotionally. The most important thing in this competition was to carry my teammate Christoph Schweiger in my heart. He was supposed to be here to climb and show what he could do. So, it was important to enjoy this gift that we have to be here and climb. The love we have and all share for climbing is something that cannot die, so I wanted to chase that spirit for him. He gave me a lot of power in the end.”

CLIMBING - Int News 21 Apr, 2023

IFSC WORLD CUP HACHIOJI 2023 BOULDER QUALIFICATION

Sports Bulletin Report Hachioji (Japan): Ogata Yoshiyuki of Japan competed in the men's Boulder qualification at IFSC World Cup Esforta Arena Hachioji Japan. WOMEN'S BOULDER QUALIFICATION 74 competitors split into two groups – Group A and Group B 21 competitors through to semi-finals tomorrow (Saturday 22 April) – 10 from Group A, 11 from Group B with two athletes tied in tenth both progressing Japan’s Nonaka Miho and Matsufuji Anon through in top positions Israel’s Ayala Kerem and USA’s Brooke Raboutou sit in third 2022 World Cup Boulder Series winner Natalia Grossman (USA) makes it through in fifth position alongside Japan’s Sekikawa Melody Eight home nation athletes progress to semi-finals Eleven of 21 athletes top all five Boulders Full women's qualification results can be found here MEN'S BOULDER QUALIFICATION 96 competitors split into two groups – Group A and Group B – with the top 20 going through to semi-finals on Sunday 23 April Japan dominates the top five with four athletes Narasaki Tomoa is top with Lee Dohyun of South Korea – both topping all five Boulders Ogata Yoshiyuki also tops five Boulders to progress in third position alongside teammate Fujii Kokoro 16-year-old Anraku Sorato of Japan moves into semi-finals in fifth with European Boulder Champion Nicolai Uznik of Austria

CLIMBING - Int News 19 Apr, 2023

IFSC WORLD CUP HACHIOJI 2023; FACTS AND STATS

Sports Bulletin Report Hachioji (Japan): IFSC World Cup Hachioji will the 387th Senior World Cup event and the 145th Boulder World Cup competition for men and women. It will be the 12th World Cup event in Japan, but only the fifth Boulder World Cup in the Asian country. Top Stat: For every Boulder World Cup competition that has taken place in Japan, there has been at least one Japanese representative on the podium in both genders, however, there has never been a Japanese winner at a men’s Boulder World Cup in Japan. Narasaki Tomoa has won the Boulder World Championship in Hachioji in 2019, but there have been no men’s World Cup wins. ATHLETES' STATS Female Boulder competitors: Petra Klinger (SUI): will be her 61st World Cup appearance in Boulder – fifth on the all time list for appearances in Boulder; Fanny Gibert (FRA): will be her 48th World Cup appearance in Boulder – 11th on the all time list for appearances in Boulder; Nonaka Miho (JPN): will be her 45th World Cup appearance in Boulder; Sol Sa (KOR): will be her 44th World Cup appearance in Boulder; Alannah Yip (CAN): will be her 30th World Cup appearance making her the Canadian female record holder. Male Boulder competitors: Jernej Kruder (SLO): will be his 82nd World Cup appearance in Boulder – second on the all time list, just one behind Kilian Fischhuber (AUT) who is top with 83 appearances; Jan Hojer (GER): will be his 58th World Cup appearance in Boulder, matching the German record of Jonas Baumann – 10th on all time list for appearances in Boulder; Kokoro Fujii (JPN): will be his 51st World Cup appearance in Boulder; Jakob Schubert (AUT) – will be his 50th World Cup appearance in Boulder; Alex Khazanov (ISR): will be his 41st World Cup appearance making him the Israeli record holder. IFSC WORLD CUP PODIUMS IN JAPAN Women's Boulder podiums: IFSC World Cup Kazo 2009: G - Noguchi Akiyo (JPN), S - Jain Kim (KOR), B - Anna Stöhr (AUT) IFSC World Cup Kazo 2016: G - Shauna Coxsey (GBR), S - Melissa Le Neve (FRA), B – Nonaka Miho (JPN) IFSC World Cup Hachioji 2017: G - Janja Garnbret (SLO), S – Noguchi Akiyo (JPN), B - Nonaka Miho (JPN) IFSC World Cup Hachioji 2018: G – Noguchi Akiyo (JPN), S – Nonaka Miho (JPN), B - Ekaterina Kipriianova (RUS) Men's Boulder podiums: IFSC World Cup Kazo 2009: G - Stéphan Julien (FRA), S - Muraoka Tatsuya, (JPN) B - Rustam Gelmanov (RUS) IFSC World Cup Kazo 2016: G - Rustam Gelmanov (RUS), S - Michael Piccolruaz (ITA), B - Fujii Kokoro (JPN) IFSC World Cup Hachioji 2017: G - Aleksei Rubtsov (RUS), S - Narasaki Tomoa (JPN), B - Watabe Keita (JPN) IFSC World Cup Hachioji 2018: G - Gabriele Moroni (ITA), S - Narasaki Tomoa (JPN), B - Sugimoto Rei (JPN)

CLIMBING - Int News 01 Apr, 2023

XIX International Federation of Sport Climbing General Assembly concludes

Sports Bulletin Report SINGAPORE: The XIX International Federation of Sport Climbing (IFSC) General Assembly concluded here on Saturday, as the Mayor of Singapore, Southeast District, Mohammad Fahmi Aliman was the guest of honour for the final day. On this occasion chief guest Mohammad Fahmi Aliman thanked the IFSC and the delegates for coming to Singapore and highlighted the impact that climbing has had on the southeast Asian country with more than 40 gyms now operating. Delegates from the 46 National Federations were presented with the IFSC 2022 Annual Report which was introduced by the IFSC President Marco Scolaris. He highlighted some of the achievements of the year including climbing’s introduction to the European Championships in Munich, Germany and the successful IFSC Climbing Summit. IFSC Vice-President Wolfgang Wabel presented a review of the World Cup Series, The World Games, Youth World Championships and European Championships before introducing a video to promote the upcoming 2023 World Championships in Bern, Switzerland. This was followed by the selection of Seoul as the host of the 2025 Climbing World Championships after a presentation from the Korea Alpine Federation (KAF). Delegates received an update on the work of the Sport Department from IFSC Sport Director Maddie Dunn which included the event strategy and the bidding process as well as information regarding the future of Athlete Screening. This was followed by a presentation from IFSC Vice-President Kobinata Toru who provided updates regarding Paris 2024 and the Olympic Qualifier Series that will begin early next year. A proposal to change the age eligibility from age 16 to 17 for the senior IFSC events, which includes the World Cups and World Championships, from 2025 onwards was put to the delegates with 57% voting in favour. Olympian and Athletes’ Commission President Shauna Coxsey spoke passionately about the value that athletes give to having positions on the board and representation throughout the IFSC Commissions structure. She also shared the focus of the Athletes’ Commission for 2023, Speed and Boulder formats, athlete health and fairness and inclusion. The new IFSC Media and Communications Director Fabrizio Rossini delivered his strategy for the future which includes a new user-friendly website and a focus on internal communications with the Federations and a new approach to content which showcases the athletes. The final report of the General Assembly was given by the IFSC Development Director Silvia Verdolini who highlighted the value of the development programmes including the World Climbing Academy, the Women in Sport High Performance Pathway, and the routesetter clinics. Prior to the closing remarks from the IFSC President, delegates were asked to vote for the hosts of the 2024 and 2025 General Assemblies, which were duly awarded to Santiago in 2024 and Cyprus in 2025 after presentations from Willy Montenegro, President of the Chilean Climbing Federation, and Pavlos Georgiades, President of Cyprus Mountaineering Climbing & Orienteering. Looking ahead to the rest of 2023, President Scolaris highlighted the European Games in Poland, the Pan American Games in Chile and the Asian Games in China which will include Climbing for the very first time.

CLIMBING - Int News 03 Feb, 2023

IFSC welcomes IPC decision to consider Para-climbing as additional Sports

Sports Bulletin Report Torino (Italy):-The Executive Board of the International Federation of Sport Climbing (IFSC) held an informal meeting, acknowledging the decision of the International Paralympic Committee (IPC) to not include Paraclimbing in the list of 22 sports that will be part of the initial programme at the Paralympic Games LA28. The IFSC Executive Board also welcomed the opportunity that the IPC gave LA28 to consider Paraclimbing for a potential inclusion as an additional sport, along with para surfing. Should the Organising Committee of the Olympic and Paralympic Games LA28 put forward any sport for consideration, a final decision will be taken by the IPC Governing Board by the end of 2023. IFSC President Marco Scolaris said: “We are extremely proud that in such a short space of time we could put together a strong proposal, and one that is now being considered to be an additional sport. The IFSC was founded in 2007 and we are confirmed in the Olympic Games LA28, and being so close with the Paralympic Games is a big step and achievement for us as a sport. It feels like we have grown together with our brothers and sisters at the International Surfing Association in the Olympic environment, and I hope that we both get to showcase our Paralympic athletes in Los Angeles, California, a place that has a big Climbing and Surfing culture and community.” Sebastian Depke, Chair of the IFSC Paraclimbing Committee, said: “The past years’ work preparing for this step was incredibly challenging for the Paraclimbing Committee. Implementing the IPC Classification system was one of our biggest tasks. Being considered as an additional sport for LA28 underlines the success of our work and this is the time for me to say ‘Thank you!’ to all those people behind the scenes that showed up just at the right moment to help. We received help from other para sports and National Paralympic Committees, as well as other commissions and staff – they really made everything possible in record time. The success of Paraclimbing in its very first application for the Paralympic Games is also their success. No matter if it was just explaining us things, giving hints or helping hands-on at the field of play, they made the difference for us. So, thank you!”

CLIMBING - Int News 19 Jan, 2023

IFSC to take steps for the protection of athletes during international events

Sports Bulletin Report Torino (Italy): The Executive Board of the International Federation of Sport Climbing (IFSC) decided to evaluate and adopt future new measures to protect the health and safety of the athletes participating in IFSC events, and to further promote fair competition. These measures will be implemented in 2024, in addition to what has already been in place in 2021 and 2022, and, just like the current measures, they may result in the suspension of an athlete’s license. The possible set of new age limits, to be discussed at the upcoming XIX IFSC General Assembly in Singapore, will also be part of this process of prevention and protection. Additionally, a series of educational activities will be set up for National Federations, team officials, and athletes, providing indications, methods, and the list of medical exams that the IFSC Medical & Anti-Doping Commission will adopt to confirm the license. “We, as the world governing body of Sport Climbing, feel the essential mandate to always put our athletes first, and protect them,” said IFSC President Marco Scolaris. The IFSC will now take the proper time to put together all the necessary information and know-how, following a number of consultations with several bodies – including the IFSC Medical Commission, Athletes’ Commission, legal experts, and the International Olympic Committee.

CLIMBING - Int News 15 Dec, 2022

Morocco welcomed by IFSC, as the 96th Member of Federation

Sports Bulletin Report Torino (Italy): A letter, signed by International Federation of Sport Climbing (IFSC) Secretary General Debra Gawrych, and sent to Nourrdine Bouchaal, Vice President of the Federation Royale Marocaine de Ski Sports de Montagne (FRMSSM), officially welcomed Morocco as a new Member Federation of the IFSC. IFSC Treasurer Pierre You also traveled to Morocco to personally congratulate on behalf of the entire IFSC Executive Board, and welcome the FRMSSM in the Climbing family. Morocco is the 96th Member Federation of the IFSC – the ninth in Africa along with Algeria, Botswana, Cameroon, Mauritius, Rwanda, Senegal, South Africa, and Uganda. “I wish to congratulate the FRMSSM for their efforts in promoting our sport, and we look forward to our fruitful cooperation to develop Sport Climbing in Morocco,” IFSC Secretary General Debra Gawrych said in the letter. The decision will finally be ratified at the XIX IFSC General Assembly, taking place in Singapore from 31 March to 1 April 2023.

CLIMBING - Int News 28 Nov, 2022

IFSC Climbing Summit Celebrated recent achievement

Sports Bulletin Report Torino (Italy): The second edition of the International Federation of Sport Climbing (IFSC) Climbing Summit took place at Nuvola Lavazza, in Torino, Italy, on 25 and 26 November 2022. The two-day event was opened by the Mayor of Torino, Stefano Lo Russo, who highlighted the link between the city and its mountain culture to the 35 National Federation delegates in attendance. IFSC President Marco Scolaris set the tone of the Summit in his opening speech, welcoming the first Sport Climbing Olympic gold medallist Janja Garnbret of Slovenia, Paraclimbing Committee Athletes’ Representative Lucia Capovilla of Italy, Tokyo 2020 Olympian Sean McColl of Canada, and former athlete Jérôme Meyer of France, for an athlete-first approach. Various topics were presented and discussed – including strategy, governance, events, media and development of Sport Climbing – to the attendees and the delegates joining online from around the world. Olympic champion Garnbret took part in a wide-ranging interview with Master of Ceremonies Peter Stafford, of MSM PR & Communications, a Swiss based communications agency, serving as a voice to inform the National Federations of the issues and thoughts of the current competitors. Garnbret also joined a panel that included IFSC Treasurer Pierre You to investigate the challenges, reputation, and risk that may be posed for the future of the organisation. In a split session, IFSC Vice Presidents Kobinata Toru and Wolfgang Wabel were joined by Athletes’ Commission Vice President Sean McColl, and by Founder and Managing Director of European Championships Management Paul Bristow, who looked back at Munich 2022 before looking forward to the next Olympic Games with Vincent Caussé, Paris 2024 Sport Manager for Sport Climbing. Bruno Cavrois and Samuel Bencteux from Warner Bros. Discovery showed the positive impact of the IFSC World Cup Series broadcasts before two interactive sessions focussed specifically on sharing experience, ideas and potential problems from the National Federations themselves. The delegates shared both positive and negatives aspects of the increased exposure and growth of Sport Climbing from their respective nations and territories, to enable a common knowledge ran throughout the separate organisations and lessons could be learned and implemented, no matter of geography or infrastructure. A final presentation by IFSC Research & Development Director Silvia Verdolini highlighted the many education programs put in place by the IFSC, followed by a closing address from IFSC President Marco Scolaris, Secretary General Debra Gawrych, and General Director Piero Rebaudengo.

CLIMBING - National 27 Nov, 2022

PSAI and IAA organize joint workshop on Learning from Mountain Sports

Sports Bulletin Report ISLAMABAD (November 27, 2022): Private School Association Islamabad (PSAI) and Islamabad Alpine Association (IAA) jointly organized an online workshop on “Learning from Mountain Sports” in connection with the International Mountain Day. Workshop was attended by sports teachers, academicians, students, athletes and other stakeholders that was held here on Sunday and the purpose was to create awareness among the key stakeholders about mountains. While highlighting the importance of mountains in our lives, President, Alpine Club of Pakistan (ACP), Abu Zafar Sadiq said: “Learning life skills and leadership skills are some of the outcomes, which are usually ignored in our society. Mountain ranges, peaks, glaciers, passes and other sports tourism are the potential of the country.” The activities undertaken by ACP drew an interface with a number of outcomes which are generally not perceived by the society. He stressed the need to engage youth in healthy mountain sports activities so that they could be kept away from gadgets, drugs, intolerance, extremism, and other negative elements adversely affecting the fiber of our society. The challenges and opportunities for mountain sports were also taken into account. Dr. Prof. Waheed Mughal, Dean, Faculty of Social Sciences, Sarhad University stressed the need to expand the vision and scope of activities for masses. He said that recreational sporting activities and mountain adventure provide plenty of opportunities for our youth to explore the beauty of Pakistan. He assured that Sarhad University would love to join hands with Alpine Club of Pakistan to support such initiatives. Prof. Dr. Mohammad Sallahuddin, head of Sports Department of MY University also shared his views. He held that mountain sports and recreational activities can have an everlasting impact on youth, if they are engaged in such activities regularly. He offered his services and support from his University to promote outdoor pursuits in mountain regions of Pakistan. Prof. Dr. Noor Mohammad Marwat, Department of Sports Sciences and Physical Education, Gomal University, D.I.Khan while stressing the importance of mountain sports tourism for the students of Sports Sciences and Physical Education appreciated the activities undertaken by Alpine Club of Pakistan and emphasized to organize it at larger scale. The participants raised many questions which were answered by the panelists.

CLIMBING - Int News 25 Nov, 2022

Second IFSC Climbing Summit starts at Nuvola Lavazza

Sports Bulletin Report Torino (Italy): The second edition of the International Federation of Sport Climbing (IFSC) Climbing Summit, taking place at Nuvola Lavazza on 25 and 26 November 2022. The two-day event will allow National Federations’ delegates to hear and discuss various topics including strategy, governance, events, media and development from the world of Sport Climbing. In the first Summit since Climbing’s debut at an Olympic Games at Tokyo 2020, there will be a particular focus on athletes as Olympic champion Janja Garnbret of Slovenia will take centre stage to share her experiences and talk about the topics she feels is affecting the world of Climbing at present. Canada’s Sean McColl, Vice President of the IFSC Athletes’ Commission, and Italy’s Lucia Capovilla, Athletes’ Representative of the IFSC Paraclimbing Committee, will also be involved in sessions throughout the two days to add further athletes’ perspective. There will be a look toward the Olympic future of the sport with a presentation from Vincent Caussé, Paris 2024 Sport Manager for Sport Climbing, and an update and review of the World Cup broadcasting from representatives of Warner Bros. Discovery. “We still regret that our community could not celebrate Climbing at the Olympic Games Tokyo 2020 in person, because of the restrictions imposed by Covid-19,” the IFSC President said. “Now, during these two days, we want to share feelings, emotions, concerns: that’s why we are here, Climbing Summit number two. I wish that, moving towards the summit together, we could shape the future of the sport which changed our lives, for many of us, for the better. Let’s dream higher.”