Climbing
CLIMBING - Int News 29 Apr, 2023
Sports Bulletin ReportSeoul (South Korea): The Men’s Boulder qualification competitions have been postponed due to bad weather, as Ayala Kerem (ISR) competed in women's Boulder qualification at IFSC World Cup 2023 at Jungnang Sport Climbing Stadium here. Now men’s events will be held on Sunday at the same venue.Women’s Boulder Qualification:As many as 78 women competed in the event, as the top 20 through to semifinals. Due to schedule change, the semifinal round will give final competition rankings and medalists in both men’s and women’s. Women divided into two groups in Group A and Group B.Israel’s Ayala Kerem tops all five boulders in Group A and is joint first position with Germany’s Lucia Dörffel who topped four in Group B. IFSC World Cup Hachioji medallists Brooke Raboutou (USA), Hannah Meul (GER) and Matsufuji Anon (JPN) all booked their berths in semifinals. Australia’s Olympian Oceania Mackenzie got through in fifth position.Ayala Kerem (ISR) said:“It was a fun round. The boulders were great. It was a little complicated with the conditions, but I’m quite surprised at the result and I’m happy to be climbing again tomorrow.“I think the last boulder that a lot of the girls didn’t do, the last move is pretty scary and you have to commit. In Hachioji I was pretty disappointed in myself in the semi-finals because there was a commitment move, it wasn’t so hard, but I just couldn’t commit for some reason. When I came to this move I said to myself I am going to do it right and I am going to fully commit, and it worked out.”Oceania Mackenzie (AUS) said:"I came into this competition with a bit of vengeance as I wasn’t very happy with my performance in Hachioji, so I was excited to come out and try hard. It paid off and I had a good time."I haven’t done that many World Cup’s in a row so I have found it frustrating the last few years. I would do a competition and figure out what I needed to do better the next time, but then it’s such a long time between competitions to put it into practice. So, this event was pretty good as things are still fresh in my mind."
CLIMBING - Int News 28 Apr, 2023
Sports Bulletin ReportSeoul (South Korea): Veddriq Leonardo of Indonesia inked new world record in Speed disciple of the IFSC World Cup at Jungnang Sport Climbing Stadium Seoul South Korea on Friday.Veddriq Leonardo of Indonesia broke the world record twice on way to gold, as the Men’s WR now 4.90 from Leonardo in quarterfinal. Also clocked a 4.98 in qualification earlier in the day, which was also a WR Long Jinbao (CHN) grabbed silver medal and Wang Xinshang of China wins bronze on IFSC World Cup debut beating teammate Long Jianguo in small final.72 men in Speed competitionUSA’s Sam Watson breaks Pan American record with 5.02Matteo Zurloni of Italy takes European record with 5.23First time all athletes had to go under 5.50 to qualify for the finalsWOMEN’S SPEEDAleksandra Miroslaw of Poland posted new world record four times and secures goldWomen’s WR now 6.25 which Miroslaw posted in final. Also clocked a 6.35 in semi-finals and 6.37 and 6.46 in qualification – all under her former WRPolish 1-2 as Natalia Kalucka claims silverMade Rita Kusuma Dewi Desak from Indonesia takes bronze beating Poland’s Aleksandra Kalucka in small final 50 women in Speed competitionUSA’s Emma Hunt breaks Pan American record with 6.82, lowering her own previously held recordFirst time all athletes had to go under 7.50 to qualify for the finalsVeddriq Leonardo (INA) – men's Gold medallist“I’m super happy tonight. To take 4.98 and be the first man to go under five, and then to win a gold is just incredible for the first event of the new season.”Aleksandra Miroslaw (POL) – women's Gold medallist“I feel really happy. 6.25. Wow. I wished for this time, and I aimed for it this season and I’m happy I’ve made it in this competition. “I’m really happy for all the girls in this competition, it was really fast. I’m really happy this sport is developing, but now I know they are all coming for me.”
CLIMBING - Int News 27 Apr, 2023
Sports Bulletin ReportSeoul (South Korea): The IFSC World Cup Series 2023 moves on to Seoul, South Korea, this weekend with the Jungnang Sport Climbing Stadium at Yongma Waterfall Park hosting the Boulder and Speed disciplines from 28 to 30 April 2023.For the first round of the 2023 IFSC World Cup, USA’s Brooke Raboutou and France’s Mejdi Schalck took the top prize, with the American taking a maiden World Cup gold. Raboutou and Schalck now turn their attention to defending the medals they secured in Hachioji. For everyone else in the Boulder competition, it’s how they can take them away in Seoul.One of the 169 athletes set to compete in Boulder is home nation favourite Chon Jongwon who has now shaken off some early season nerves, although with a finals appearance in Hachioji you would never know: “The first World Cup of the season I am always so nervous. My goal every competition is to make finals, which I did in Japan, but I was very nervous, and I don’t know why. “I feel ready now to compete in Seoul. I am full of confidence, and I am so ready.”As one of the, as he calls himself, ‘older’ athletes on the circuit, Jongwon is putting in the time to get in great shape for the season ahead, something he feels he has to do to continue in the sport: “There were a few surprises in Japan. There were some strong guys who didn’t even make semi-finals. “That goes to show the strength of the competition now. We have a new generation of young climbers and us old guys need to train even harder to keep up.”With a new generation breaking through, Jongwon picks his ones-to-watch in Seoul: “Well obviously, the ones to watch are all the Korean men. On the women’s side, I hope Seo Chaehyun does well, but you also have to look at Brooke [Raboutou], she did great last time. “Then you have Natalia [Grossman], she will definitely be back, and she won here in Korea last year.”USA’s Grossman won five Boulder World Cup events in 2022, one of them in Seoul, but in Hachioji the American missed out on finals. She will be looking to get back on track and has the opportunity to do so quickly with two World Cup’s so close together.In the men’s Boulder in Hachioji there were two French medals with Schalck and teammate Paul Jenft picking up gold and bronze, respectively. In an Olympic qualification year, they will be looking to continue building throughout the season with a home Games on the horizon. Making history in Hachioji was Belgium’s Hannes Van Duysen who claimed the first-ever World Cup medal, in any of the disciplines, for his country. With only a week turnaround in competition the Belgian climber will hope he can use the adrenaline and excitement to take another medal and double his, and the country’s, tally.Kiromal Katibin from Indonesia was breaking his own record time after time in 2022. USA’s Sam Watson has seen a sub-5 in training. At a recent event in Italy Matteo Zurloni posted a 5.04 narrowly beating fellow Italian Ludovico Fossali who tapped at 5.06. The gap is closing, and an official sub-5 is looking like a matter of sooner rather than later. This time last year the women’s Speed record was the 6.84 that Aleksandra Miroslaw clocked at the Tokyo 2020 Olympics. Since then, the Polish climber has lowered the record twice. Now standing at 6.53, there’s high expectations for Miroslaw to lower it for a third time, especially with an unofficial world record of 6.39 at the recent Polish Championships
CLIMBING - Int News 26 Apr, 2023
Sports Bulletin ReportSeoul (South Korea): As many as 283 athletes from all over the world will take part in the upcoming International Federation of Sports Climbing (IFSC) World Cup 2023, which will be held in Seoul, South Korea, from 28 to 30 April 2023 at the Jungnang Sport Climbing Stadium at Yongma Waterfall Park.IFSC World Cup Seoul 2023 will the 384th Senior World Cup event and the sixth World Cup competition in South Korea. The World Cup was first hosted in Chuncheon in 2010, then three consecutive editions in Mokpo between 2012 and 2014, and in Seoul last year.The IFSC World Cup Seoul 2023 will be the 144th Boulder competition, and the 129th Speed competitions. A total of 287 athletes have been registered for the event including 79 in women’s Boulder, 90 in men’s Boulder, 50 in women’s Speed; and 72 in men’s Speed.There will be three men competing in both Boulder and Speed: Chan Cheung-chi Shoji of Hong Kong, China; Ardch Intrachupongse of Thailand; and Lin Chia Hsiang of Chinese Taipei. One woman will compete in both Boulder and Speed: South Korea’s Yun Dasom (KOR).Boulder competitors:Jernej Kruder (SLO): will tie the men’s record of attending 83 Boulder World Cup competitions, tying with Killian Fischhuber (AUT);Jan Hojer (GER): ties the German record belonging to Jonas Baumann of attending 58 Boulder World Cup competitions;Alannah Yip (CAN): will make her 31st World Cup appearance, extending the record for female Canadian participation;Alex Khazanov (ISR): will make his 42nd World Cup appearance, extending his record for Israeli participation.DEBUTSThe following climbers will make their career debut on the IFSC World Cup circuit:Women’s Boulder:Iris Heikkinen (FIN), Eugenie Lee (GBR), Kim Chaeyeong (KOR), Natalie Goh Sihui (SGP).Men’s Boulder:Song Yunchan (KOR).Women’s Speed:Yang Mi (CHN), Zhang Shaoqin (CHN), Zhou Yaifei (CHN), Mu Yuju (CHN), Abigail Ruano (ECU), Shivpreet Pannu (IND), Anna Balarshina (KAZ), Yung Ye Jin (KOR).Men’s Speed:Adrien Levesque (CAN), Wang Xinshang (CHN), Tabuchi Motonori (JPN), Zandos Kalibay (KAZ), Damir Toktarov (KAZ), Kim Dong Jun Kim (KOR), Choi Jongbin (KOR).Women's Boulder podium:IFSC World Cup Seoul 2022:G – Natalia Grossman (USA), S – Oriane Bertone (FRA), B – Brooke Raboutou (USA)Men's Boulder podium:IFSC World Cup Seoul 2022:G – Kokoro Fujii (JPN), S – Tomoa Narasaki, (JPN) B – Yoshiyuki Ogata (JPN)Women's Speed podium:IFSC World Cup Seoul 2022:G – Aleksandra Miroslaw (POL), S – Emma Hunt (USA), B – Aleksandra Kalucka (POL)Men's Speed podium:IFSC World Cup Seoul 2022:G – Veddriq Leonardo (INA), S – Kiromal Katibin (INA), B – Mulyono Rahmad Adi (INA)
CLIMBING - Int News 23 Apr, 2023
Sports Bulletin ReportHachioji (Japan): French guy Mejdi Schalck lifted his second IFSC World Cup gold medal in his 11th World Cup appearance, which is going on in Hachioji, Japan, as the Hannes Van Duysen took silver for Belgium’s first ever World Cup medal in any discipline. He is only the second Belgian to make an IFSC Boulder World Cup final.Mejdi Schalck (FRA) – Gold medallist“I’m very happy with the gold as it’s been a big goal I have been training for over winter. I wanted to win a second medal to show myself I could do it."On his friendship/rivalry with teammate Paul Jenft:"We have trained together for about five or six years and the ‘rivalry’ pushes us on to the top. We push each other and it is a really good rivalry for the both of us.”Hannes Van Duysen (BEL) – Silver medallist"It's the first time for Belgium to get a medal so that’s pretty cool. It’s amazing to be here and every round was incredible for me. I was excited to be in the semi-final and then I didn’t have any pressure, so I just climbed how I wanted to and made the final. Then to end up on the podium is very crazy.""I competed in a few World Cups last year, but I made a lot of silly mistakes, so it didn’t go that well. My positioning, the slabs weren’t really that good, but my training during the winter went really well and I found a better way to move on the boulders, and I think this was the key to break through in a senior event."Paul Jenft (FRA) – Bronze medallist"It’s a bit of a relief because all the finals I have done I always end up in fourth so it’s really cool to make the podium after three finals and three fourth places."Joking about his teammate Mejdi Schalck:"I’m happy but I’m also frustrated because Mejdi always beats me. But he pushes me to be stronger because he’s my friend and we train really well together."
CLIMBING - Int News 23 Apr, 2023
Sports Bulletin Report
Hachioji (Japan): American climber, Brooke Raboutou has won the first ever IFSC World Cup gold medal, as the Germany’s Hannah Meul picked up silver while Japan’s Matsufuji Anon clinched bronze in front of home crowd, her best ever finish in an IFSC Boulder World Cup.
Ayala Kerem (ISR) also finished best ever finish in 4th, Luo Zhilu (CHN) was spotted in 5th, and Mia Krampl (SLO) got 6th position, as the final was contested by athletes from six different countries.
No competitor in the final had ever won an IFSC Boulder World Cup. The last 17 IFSC World Cup Boulder events have been won by either Natalia Grossman (USA) or Janja Garnbret (SLO).
Brooke Raboutou (USA) – Gold medallist
“It’s crazy. I feel a lot. It hasn’t really sunk. I knew I had won when I topped the last boulder, but even then, I was like ‘are you sure?’. Most of all I just feel thankful and really happy with my climbing today.”
“I called my parents and they are very, very happy. My mum just told me she was really proud of me, but I feel that every day with them anyway. As much as winning a World Cup was a big dream for me, I had to thank my parents because they got me here and they get me up the wall.”
Hannah Meul (GER) – Silver medallist
“It’s amazing. I’m super happy to start the season like this. It’s definitely the best start. I had the perfect mixture of being nervous, but also confident in my climbing and what I am capable of.”
“This competition was the hardest emotionally. The most important thing in this competition was to carry my teammate Christoph Schweiger in my heart. He was supposed to be here to climb and show what he could do. So, it was important to enjoy this gift that we have to be here and climb. The love we have and all share for climbing is something that cannot die, so I wanted to chase that spirit for him. He gave me a lot of power in the end.”
CLIMBING - Int News 21 Apr, 2023
Sports Bulletin Report
Hachioji (Japan): Ogata Yoshiyuki of Japan competed in the men's Boulder qualification at IFSC World Cup Esforta Arena Hachioji Japan.
WOMEN'S BOULDER QUALIFICATION
74 competitors split into two groups – Group A and Group B
21 competitors through to semi-finals tomorrow (Saturday 22 April) – 10 from Group A, 11 from Group B with two athletes tied in tenth both progressing
Japan’s Nonaka Miho and Matsufuji Anon through in top positions
Israel’s Ayala Kerem and USA’s Brooke Raboutou sit in third
2022 World Cup Boulder Series winner Natalia Grossman (USA) makes it through in fifth position alongside Japan’s Sekikawa Melody
Eight home nation athletes progress to semi-finals
Eleven of 21 athletes top all five Boulders
Full women's qualification results can be found here
MEN'S BOULDER QUALIFICATION
96 competitors split into two groups – Group A and Group B – with the top 20 going through to semi-finals on Sunday 23 April
Japan dominates the top five with four athletes
Narasaki Tomoa is top with Lee Dohyun of South Korea – both topping all five Boulders
Ogata Yoshiyuki also tops five Boulders to progress in third position alongside teammate Fujii Kokoro
16-year-old Anraku Sorato of Japan moves into semi-finals in fifth with European Boulder Champion Nicolai Uznik of Austria
CLIMBING - Int News 19 Apr, 2023
Sports Bulletin Report
Hachioji (Japan): IFSC World Cup Hachioji will the 387th Senior World Cup event and the 145th Boulder World Cup competition for men and women.
It will be the 12th World Cup event in Japan, but only the fifth Boulder World Cup in the Asian country.
Top Stat: For every Boulder World Cup competition that has taken place in Japan, there has been at least one Japanese representative on the podium in both genders, however, there has never been a Japanese winner at a men’s Boulder World Cup in Japan. Narasaki Tomoa has won the Boulder World Championship in Hachioji in 2019, but there have been no men’s World Cup wins.
ATHLETES' STATS
Female Boulder competitors:
Petra Klinger (SUI): will be her 61st World Cup appearance in Boulder – fifth on the all time list for appearances in Boulder;
Fanny Gibert (FRA): will be her 48th World Cup appearance in Boulder – 11th on the all time list for appearances in Boulder;
Nonaka Miho (JPN): will be her 45th World Cup appearance in Boulder;
Sol Sa (KOR): will be her 44th World Cup appearance in Boulder;
Alannah Yip (CAN): will be her 30th World Cup appearance making her the Canadian female record holder.
Male Boulder competitors:
Jernej Kruder (SLO): will be his 82nd World Cup appearance in Boulder – second on the all time list, just one behind Kilian Fischhuber (AUT) who is top with 83 appearances;
Jan Hojer (GER): will be his 58th World Cup appearance in Boulder, matching the German record of Jonas Baumann – 10th on all time list for appearances in Boulder;
Kokoro Fujii (JPN): will be his 51st World Cup appearance in Boulder;
Jakob Schubert (AUT) – will be his 50th World Cup appearance in Boulder;
Alex Khazanov (ISR): will be his 41st World Cup appearance making him the Israeli record holder.
IFSC WORLD CUP PODIUMS IN JAPAN
Women's Boulder podiums:
IFSC World Cup Kazo 2009:
G - Noguchi Akiyo (JPN), S - Jain Kim (KOR), B - Anna Stöhr (AUT)
IFSC World Cup Kazo 2016:
G - Shauna Coxsey (GBR), S - Melissa Le Neve (FRA), B – Nonaka Miho (JPN)
IFSC World Cup Hachioji 2017:
G - Janja Garnbret (SLO), S – Noguchi Akiyo (JPN), B - Nonaka Miho (JPN)
IFSC World Cup Hachioji 2018:
G – Noguchi Akiyo (JPN), S – Nonaka Miho (JPN), B - Ekaterina Kipriianova (RUS)
Men's Boulder podiums:
IFSC World Cup Kazo 2009:
G - Stéphan Julien (FRA), S - Muraoka Tatsuya, (JPN) B - Rustam Gelmanov (RUS)
IFSC World Cup Kazo 2016:
G - Rustam Gelmanov (RUS), S - Michael Piccolruaz (ITA), B - Fujii Kokoro (JPN)
IFSC World Cup Hachioji 2017:
G - Aleksei Rubtsov (RUS), S - Narasaki Tomoa (JPN), B - Watabe Keita (JPN)
IFSC World Cup Hachioji 2018:
G - Gabriele Moroni (ITA), S - Narasaki Tomoa (JPN), B - Sugimoto Rei (JPN)
CLIMBING - Int News 01 Apr, 2023
Sports Bulletin Report
SINGAPORE: The XIX International Federation of Sport Climbing (IFSC) General Assembly concluded here on Saturday, as the Mayor of Singapore, Southeast District, Mohammad Fahmi Aliman was the guest of honour for the final day.
On this occasion chief guest Mohammad Fahmi Aliman thanked the IFSC and the delegates for coming to Singapore and highlighted the impact that climbing has had on the southeast Asian country with more than 40 gyms now operating.
Delegates from the 46 National Federations were presented with the IFSC 2022 Annual Report which was introduced by the IFSC President Marco Scolaris. He highlighted some of the achievements of the year including climbing’s introduction to the European Championships in Munich, Germany and the successful IFSC Climbing Summit.
IFSC Vice-President Wolfgang Wabel presented a review of the World Cup Series, The World Games, Youth World Championships and European Championships before introducing a video to promote the upcoming 2023 World Championships in Bern, Switzerland. This was followed by the selection of Seoul as the host of the 2025 Climbing World Championships after a presentation from the Korea Alpine Federation (KAF).
Delegates received an update on the work of the Sport Department from IFSC Sport Director Maddie Dunn which included the event strategy and the bidding process as well as information regarding the future of Athlete Screening. This was followed by a presentation from IFSC Vice-President Kobinata Toru who provided updates regarding Paris 2024 and the Olympic Qualifier Series that will begin early next year.
A proposal to change the age eligibility from age 16 to 17 for the senior IFSC events, which includes the World Cups and World Championships, from 2025 onwards was put to the delegates with 57% voting in favour.
Olympian and Athletes’ Commission President Shauna Coxsey spoke passionately about the value that athletes give to having positions on the board and representation throughout the IFSC Commissions structure. She also shared the focus of the Athletes’ Commission for 2023, Speed and Boulder formats, athlete health and fairness and inclusion.
The new IFSC Media and Communications Director Fabrizio Rossini delivered his strategy for the future which includes a new user-friendly website and a focus on internal communications with the Federations and a new approach to content which showcases the athletes.
The final report of the General Assembly was given by the IFSC Development Director Silvia Verdolini who highlighted the value of the development programmes including the World Climbing Academy, the Women in Sport High Performance Pathway, and the routesetter clinics.
Prior to the closing remarks from the IFSC President, delegates were asked to vote for the hosts of the 2024 and 2025 General Assemblies, which were duly awarded to Santiago in 2024 and Cyprus in 2025 after presentations from Willy Montenegro, President of the Chilean Climbing Federation, and Pavlos Georgiades, President of Cyprus Mountaineering Climbing & Orienteering.
Looking ahead to the rest of 2023, President Scolaris highlighted the European Games in Poland, the Pan American Games in Chile and the Asian Games in China which will include Climbing for the very first time.
CLIMBING - Int News 03 Feb, 2023
Sports Bulletin Report
Torino (Italy):-The Executive Board of the International Federation of Sport Climbing (IFSC) held an informal meeting, acknowledging the decision of the International Paralympic Committee (IPC) to not include Paraclimbing in the list of 22 sports that will be part of the initial programme at the Paralympic Games LA28.
The IFSC Executive Board also welcomed the opportunity that the IPC gave LA28 to consider Paraclimbing for a potential inclusion as an additional sport, along with para surfing. Should the Organising Committee of the Olympic and Paralympic Games LA28 put forward any sport for consideration, a final decision will be taken by the IPC Governing Board by the end of 2023.
IFSC President Marco Scolaris said:
“We are extremely proud that in such a short space of time we could put together a strong proposal, and one that is now being considered to be an additional sport.
The IFSC was founded in 2007 and we are confirmed in the Olympic Games LA28, and being so close with the Paralympic Games is a big step and achievement for us as a sport. It feels like we have grown together with our brothers and sisters at the International Surfing Association in the Olympic environment, and I hope that we both get to showcase our Paralympic athletes in Los Angeles, California, a place that has a big Climbing and Surfing culture and community.”
Sebastian Depke, Chair of the IFSC Paraclimbing Committee, said:
“The past years’ work preparing for this step was incredibly challenging for the Paraclimbing Committee. Implementing the IPC Classification system was one of our biggest tasks. Being considered as an additional sport for LA28 underlines the success of our work and this is the time for me to say ‘Thank you!’ to all those people behind the scenes that showed up just at the right moment to help.
We received help from other para sports and National Paralympic Committees, as well as other commissions and staff – they really made everything possible in record time. The success of Paraclimbing in its very first application for the Paralympic Games is also their success. No matter if it was just explaining us things, giving hints or helping hands-on at the field of play, they made the difference for us. So, thank you!”
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