Climbing - Int News - Sport bulletin

Climbing - Int News

CLIMBING - Int News 22 May, 2023

IFSC World Cup: Final Gold medals go to Narasaki and Leonardo

Sports Bulletin ReportSalt Lake City (USA):- Narasaki Tomoa from Japan in the men’s Boulder event, and Veddriq Leonardo of Indonesia in the men’s Speed fixture earned the gold medals on the fourth leg of the International Federation of Sport Climbing (IFSC) World Cup Series 2023 concluded tonight in Salt Lake City, Utah, United States of America (USA).Men’s Boulder Event:A spectacular, high-scoring Boulder round amused the crowd that gathered at Pioneer Park on a hot and sunny afternoon. Japanese duo Narasaki Tomoa and Anraku Sorato battled all along the men’s Boulder final, both finishing with four tops, but being separated by a different number of attempts. Indeed, Narasaki flashed both problems number one and four, eventually winning gold with six attempts to top. Competing in his first Boulder final round, Sorato won silver with 12 attempts to top.Also participating in his first Boulder final, Great Britain’s Toby Roberts took bronze with a brilliant performance, only failing to solve the first slab problem, and concluding with three tops, four zones and the bronze medal around his neck. “I am very satisfied with my first gold medal coming in Salt Lake City, and I would like to thank the audience for the amazing support,” said Narasaki.Men’s Speed Event:The fourth and conclusive act of the event was the men’s Speed final, which sealed an exciting week of Paraclimbing and Climbing in Salt Lake City. In the gold medal race, Indonesia’s Veddriq Leonardo signed the fastest time of the round-4.95 seconds. besting China’s Wu Peng, who slipped in the first part of the climb and took silver with 6.99.Leonardo’s teammate Kiromal Katibin overcame a foot injury that occurred early in the knockout round and pocketed the bronze medal. The former world record holder stopped the clock at 4.98, winning the race against crowd favourite Samuel Watson, who ended up in fourth position with 5.98.Leonardo said: “I am very happy and very grateful, because it is my third gold medal here in Salt Lake City. I hope that the next World Cup events can be successful too.”The IFSC World Cup Series 2023 will now move to Europe, where a busy couple of months will bring the best climbers and paraclimbers in the world to compete in Czech Republic, Italy, Austria, Switzerland, and France.

CLIMBING - Int News 19 May, 2023

IFSC World Cup: 251 climbers to participate in a 3-day fixture

Sports Bulletin ReportSalt Lake City (USA): 251 players will fight for the top honours in the two disciplines, Boulder & Speed, of the IFSC World Cup, which will be taken place from May 19 to 21, 2023 at Pioneer Park Salt Lake City Utah United States of America (USA) under the banner of International Federation of Sports Climbing (IFSC).The IFSC World Cup Salt Lake City 2023 will be the 386th World Cup event in the history of IFSC, as the 21st to be held in the USA. The event will feature the 145 men’s and women’s Boulder competitions, and the 131 men’s and women’s Speed competitions.A total, 251 athletes registered to compete including 70 in men’s Boulder, 66 in women’s Boulder, 67 in men’s Speed, and 49 in women’s Speed fixture.

CLIMBING - Int News 18 May, 2023

IFSC Para-climbing World Cup Series concludes in USA

Hosts athletes remain on top with 4 gold, 5 silver, 3 bronze medals in Para-climbingSports Bulletin ReportSalt Lake City (USA):-Hosts athletes won top position with 4 golds, 5 silvers, and 3 bronzes, as the International Federation of Sport Climbing (IFSC) Paraclimbing World Cup Series 2023 concluded here at The Front Climbing Club in Utah, United States of America (USA).France with two golds; Austria with one gold and two silvers; and Romania with one gold and two bronzes finished their journey in the Paraclimbing World Cup Series 2023. Barkan, also a first-time World Cup participant, took silver; and Ionela Grecu of Romania completed the podium in third place.In the men’s B1 Lead event, Aita was followed by Francisco Javier Aguilar Amoedo of Spain and Razvan Nedu of Romania, who respectively won silver and bronze. Alongside Candoi, the men’s B3 podium featured Guillermo Pelegrín Gómez of Spain in second position, and Richard Slocock of Great Britain in third.Current world champion Lucie Jarrige of France picked up where she left off at the end of last season, when she won gold at the two Paraclimbing World Cups she competed in, in Innsbruck, Austria, and Villars, Switzerland. Jarrige dominated the women’s AL2 final, finishing ahead of silver medal winner Sarah Larcombe of Australia, and bronze medal winner Mary Tankersley of the USA.The Brazilian and Norwegian anthems also resounded loud at The Front Climbing Club, thanks to the winning performances of Marina Dias and Dina Eivik in the women’s RP3 and RP2 Lead finals.Dias, supported by a large group of teammates, prevailed with a slight margin over Natalie Vorel of the USA, who won silver. Bronze medal went to Natalie Schaupert of Austria, who also placed very close to her opponents.Eivik took gold in a low-scoring women’s RP2 final, finishing first ahead of silver medallist Emily Seelenfreund of the USA, and bronze medallist Miranda Scott of Canada. Eivik closed with 18+, Seelenfreund scored 15+, Scott with 14+.The second gold medal for Team USA was taken by Brian Zarzuela, who topped the route of the men’s RP2 final and won one of the loudest applauses from the crowd that filled every available space in the venue. Iván Muñoz Escolar of Spain concluded in second place, taking silver, while Philipp Hrozek of Germany placed third and won bronze.After placing second in the women’s AU2 qualification round, France’s Solenne Piret was able to upset the odds and take the sixth World Cup gold of her fantastic career, besting US experienced climber Maureen Back, who was first at the end of qualification, and ended up winning silver. Beck’s teammate Isabel Benvenuti – another first-time World Cup participant – completed the podium in third place.The third and fourth golds of the day for Team USA was signed by Melissa Ruiz and Elliott Nguyen in the women’s and men’s RP1 events. For both, it is the first World Cup win of their career.The women’s RP1 podium also featured Jasmin Plank of Austria in second place, and Marta Peche Salinero of Spain in third. The men’s RP1 podium was completed by silver medal winner Gian Matteo Ramini of Italy, and bronze medal winner Okada Takuya of Japan.

CLIMBING - Int News 17 May, 2023

114 athletes to compete in Para-climbing World Cup

Sports Bulletin ReportSalt Lake City (USA):-As many as 114 athletes from 18 countries are taking part in the first International Federation of Sport Climbing (IFSC) Paraclimbing World Cup, which is getting under way at The Front Climbing Club in Salt Lake City, Utah, USA.A total of 114 athletes are showing their climbing skills in 13 sport classes from 18 country across the world including best climbers in the world travel to Innsbruck, Austria, and Villars, Switzerland, where the most anticipated event of the season will also take place.Indeed, the eighth edition of the IFSC Paraclimbing World Championships is scheduled to commence on 8 August at the PostFinance Arena in Bern, alongside the Climbing World Championships that will award the first set of Olympic quota places for Paris 2024.

CLIMBING - Int News 14 May, 2023

Pakistan’s Naila Kiani conquers 8848 meters high Mount Everest

Sports Bulletin ReportISLAMABAD:-Pakistan’s female mountaineer, Naila Kiani stepped onto Mount Everest successfully 8848-meter high, said a spokesman for the Alpine Club of Pakistan on Sunday.After this attempt, Naila Kiani became the first Pakistani woman climber to summit five peaks over 8,000 meters. Naila is a Dubai-based Pakistani banker and an amateur boxer mother of two kids.She climbed the world’s second tallest peak shortly after Samina Baig, who has become the first Pakistani woman to make this mark in the history of Pakistan climbing.

CLIMBING - Int News 08 May, 2023

IFSC World Series: Poland’s Aleksandra Miroslaw wins gold medal

Sports Bulletin ReportJakarta (Indonesia) Aleksandra Miroslaw from Poland clinched the gold medal in the women’s fixture of the IFSC World Cup in Jakarta, Indonesia on Sunday. Aleksandra Miroslaw slipped in the 1st race of finals but managed to navigate her way through to the gold medal race. She overcame narrowly Indonesia’s Desak Made Rita Kusuma Dewi Big final result for gold medal, as the timing was Miroslaw 6.43 and Dewi 6.52 (New Asian record). Dewi’s got silver medal.Even nerve-jangling race for bronze saw Aleksandra Kalucka from Poland left behind to China’s Lijuan Deng by 0.01 seconds (Kalucka 6.64 – Deng 6.65).In the men’s event, local athlete Raharjati Nursamsa finished with his first ever gold in the IFSC World Cup. Xinshang Wang from China produced best ever result in IFSC World Cup compromised with silver medal, as he had won bronze last week in Seoul, South Korea. Big final’s timing were Nursamsa 5.11 – Wang 5.14. Former world record holder, Indonesia’s Kiromal Katibin took bronze.Gold medallist man Aleksandra Miroslaw said:“I am very happy with gold medal because every competition is different climate. Different challenges. This competition was wet, and it was really warm, so I just tried to focus 100% on my start. The first round of finals was really difficult for me, but then I found my flow and did my job.” Gold medallist woman Raharjati Nursamsa said:“I’m very happy and thankful. I’ve been training really hard for this gold medal. It helps that we have really strong climbers in Indonesia and it gives me great motivation to keep up with them all, and now I have a win to show for my efforts.”

CLIMBING - Int News 06 May, 2023

IFSC World Cup: 16 man, 16 women to compete in Speed finals

Sports Bulletin ReportJakarta (Indonesia):-Top 16 men and women moved into the final round of the IFSC World Cup Speed Qualification fixtures while 72 men and 47 women competed in the discipline on Saturday in Jakarta, Indonesia. Finals will be held on Sunday.Both world record holders went through, Aleksandra Miroslaw (POL) qualifies in first place with 6.36, Veddriq Leonardo (INA) qualifies second with 5.09. Indonesian teammate and former world record holder Kiromal Katibin qualified top in the men with 6.03. Six Indonesian men reached in finals.Medallists from last week’s IFSC World Cup Seoul, Wang Xinshang and Long Jinbao both qualified, five Chinese athletes included in total to move finals. Jun Yasukawa set new Japanese men’s record of 5.22 to qualify in eighth position. 5.35 needed to qualify from men's category - Yaroslav Tkach (UKR) through with this time in 16th positionDesak Made Rita Kusuma Dewi took second position in the women’s competition with 6.65, one of four Indonesians to make it through. Poland and China also have four representatives in tomorrow’s women’s finals. 7.42 needed to qualify from women's category - Yafei Zhou (CHN) through with this time in 16th position.Kiromal Katibin said:"I feel very happy with my time. A 5.03 is a good time and it gets me into the finals so I’m really happy about that, and I think I can go even quicker tomorrow as well.”Emma Hunt said:"I didn’t climb the way I really wanted to, but that’s ok, I know I will climb better tomorrow when it counts. It was hot today, and again, it’s something I will be ready for tomorrow."I’m not sure if the heat was the reason I didn’t climb that well today, I don’t think it was, but it could be a factor."

CLIMBING - Int News 05 May, 2023

IFSC News: 30 official sports named to the 2025 IWGA

Sports Bulletin ReportTorino (Italy): President, International Federation of Sport Climbing (IFSC) Marco Scolaris says further details on the format for Sport Climbing at The World Games 2025 in Chengdu, China are expected to be announced later this year. President IFSC Scolaris attended the Annual General Meeting of the International World Games Association (IWGA) in Madrid, Spain and met with representatives of the IWGA and the 30 official sports named to the 2025 programme.Marco Scolaris said:“We had some excellent conversations in Madrid, as They included our proposed disciplines and medal events for the Chengdu World Games, which are based on a number of important factors, including popularity, sustainability, cost efficiency, and the growth of our sport. The IFSC is excited to take part once again in this global multi-sport event and to work and learn together with our peers from 30 other sports.” Chengdu will mark the IFSC’s sixth appearance at The World Games, following Sport Climbing’s successful showing at the 2022 edition in Birmingham. The 2025 World Games are scheduled to take place from 7 to 17 August.

CLIMBING - Int News 30 Apr, 2023

IFSC World Cup: Nonaka Miho wins first gold medal in Boulder for five years

Sports Bulletin ReportSeoul (South Korea): Japan’s women Nonaka Miho won the first IFSC World Cup gold medal in Boulder for five years at Jungnang Sport Climbing Stadium, Seoul, South Korea on Sunday. She had lifted the gold medal last time in Meiringen 2018.France’s Mejdi Schalck got his second consecutive gold medal in 2023. Due to adverse weather and a reschedule, the semifinals, with 20 competitors in both men’s and women’s competitions, were used for final rankings and awarding of medals.Men had a qualification round in the morning before the evening semifinals of both men’s and women's fixtures. Another French medal, as Oriane Bertone won the silver in women’s competition. USA’s Brooke Raboutou earned gold in Hachioji last week by taking bronze. Narasaki Tomoa from Japan got silver medal in men's event. Home favourite Chon Jongwon pleased crowd with a bronze medal.IFSC World Cup Seoul 2023 completed after Boulder competition and a stunning Speed competition with multiple world records and wins for Aleksandra Miroslaw (POL) and Veddriq Leonardo (INA). Next IFSC World Cup will be held in Jakarta, Indonesia, from 6-7 May 2023.Nonaka Miho (Gold medallist) said:“I’m so happy. I’m delighted to win this gold medal. I don’t know what to say. I’ve competed for so long and it’s been five years since I won at a Boulder World Cup. It feels crazy. I’m happy.”Mejdi Schalck (Men's Gold medallist) said:“I think I don’t really realise what is happening. It’s just crazy. I just wanted to come here and do my best, climb and have fun. It’s crazy, I don’t think I realise actually what is happening.”

CLIMBING - Int News 29 Apr, 2023

IFSC World Cup: Israel’s Ayala Kerem tops all five boulders in Group A

Sports Bulletin ReportSeoul (South Korea): The Men’s Boulder qualification competitions have been postponed due to bad weather, as Ayala Kerem (ISR) competed in women's Boulder qualification at IFSC World Cup 2023 at Jungnang Sport Climbing Stadium here. Now men’s events will be held on Sunday at the same venue.Women’s Boulder Qualification:As many as 78 women competed in the event, as the top 20 through to semifinals. Due to schedule change, the semifinal round will give final competition rankings and medalists in both men’s and women’s. Women divided into two groups in Group A and Group B.Israel’s Ayala Kerem tops all five boulders in Group A and is joint first position with Germany’s Lucia Dörffel who topped four in Group B. IFSC World Cup Hachioji medallists Brooke Raboutou (USA), Hannah Meul (GER) and Matsufuji Anon (JPN) all booked their berths in semifinals. Australia’s Olympian Oceania Mackenzie got through in fifth position.Ayala Kerem (ISR) said:“It was a fun round. The boulders were great. It was a little complicated with the conditions, but I’m quite surprised at the result and I’m happy to be climbing again tomorrow.“I think the last boulder that a lot of the girls didn’t do, the last move is pretty scary and you have to commit. In Hachioji I was pretty disappointed in myself in the semi-finals because there was a commitment move, it wasn’t so hard, but I just couldn’t commit for some reason. When I came to this move I said to myself I am going to do it right and I am going to fully commit, and it worked out.”Oceania Mackenzie (AUS) said:"I came into this competition with a bit of vengeance as I wasn’t very happy with my performance in Hachioji, so I was excited to come out and try hard. It paid off and I had a good time."I haven’t done that many World Cup’s in a row so I have found it frustrating the last few years. I would do a competition and figure out what I needed to do better the next time, but then it’s such a long time between competitions to put it into practice. So, this event was pretty good as things are still fresh in my mind."