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Climbing - Int News

CLIMBING - Int News 19 Apr, 2023

IFSC WORLD CUP HACHIOJI 2023; FACTS AND STATS

Sports Bulletin Report Hachioji (Japan): IFSC World Cup Hachioji will the 387th Senior World Cup event and the 145th Boulder World Cup competition for men and women. It will be the 12th World Cup event in Japan, but only the fifth Boulder World Cup in the Asian country. Top Stat: For every Boulder World Cup competition that has taken place in Japan, there has been at least one Japanese representative on the podium in both genders, however, there has never been a Japanese winner at a men’s Boulder World Cup in Japan. Narasaki Tomoa has won the Boulder World Championship in Hachioji in 2019, but there have been no men’s World Cup wins. ATHLETES' STATS Female Boulder competitors: Petra Klinger (SUI): will be her 61st World Cup appearance in Boulder – fifth on the all time list for appearances in Boulder; Fanny Gibert (FRA): will be her 48th World Cup appearance in Boulder – 11th on the all time list for appearances in Boulder; Nonaka Miho (JPN): will be her 45th World Cup appearance in Boulder; Sol Sa (KOR): will be her 44th World Cup appearance in Boulder; Alannah Yip (CAN): will be her 30th World Cup appearance making her the Canadian female record holder. Male Boulder competitors: Jernej Kruder (SLO): will be his 82nd World Cup appearance in Boulder – second on the all time list, just one behind Kilian Fischhuber (AUT) who is top with 83 appearances; Jan Hojer (GER): will be his 58th World Cup appearance in Boulder, matching the German record of Jonas Baumann – 10th on all time list for appearances in Boulder; Kokoro Fujii (JPN): will be his 51st World Cup appearance in Boulder; Jakob Schubert (AUT) – will be his 50th World Cup appearance in Boulder; Alex Khazanov (ISR): will be his 41st World Cup appearance making him the Israeli record holder. IFSC WORLD CUP PODIUMS IN JAPAN Women's Boulder podiums: IFSC World Cup Kazo 2009: G - Noguchi Akiyo (JPN), S - Jain Kim (KOR), B - Anna Stöhr (AUT) IFSC World Cup Kazo 2016: G - Shauna Coxsey (GBR), S - Melissa Le Neve (FRA), B – Nonaka Miho (JPN) IFSC World Cup Hachioji 2017: G - Janja Garnbret (SLO), S – Noguchi Akiyo (JPN), B - Nonaka Miho (JPN) IFSC World Cup Hachioji 2018: G – Noguchi Akiyo (JPN), S – Nonaka Miho (JPN), B - Ekaterina Kipriianova (RUS) Men's Boulder podiums: IFSC World Cup Kazo 2009: G - Stéphan Julien (FRA), S - Muraoka Tatsuya, (JPN) B - Rustam Gelmanov (RUS) IFSC World Cup Kazo 2016: G - Rustam Gelmanov (RUS), S - Michael Piccolruaz (ITA), B - Fujii Kokoro (JPN) IFSC World Cup Hachioji 2017: G - Aleksei Rubtsov (RUS), S - Narasaki Tomoa (JPN), B - Watabe Keita (JPN) IFSC World Cup Hachioji 2018: G - Gabriele Moroni (ITA), S - Narasaki Tomoa (JPN), B - Sugimoto Rei (JPN)

CLIMBING - Int News 01 Apr, 2023

XIX International Federation of Sport Climbing General Assembly concludes

Sports Bulletin Report SINGAPORE: The XIX International Federation of Sport Climbing (IFSC) General Assembly concluded here on Saturday, as the Mayor of Singapore, Southeast District, Mohammad Fahmi Aliman was the guest of honour for the final day. On this occasion chief guest Mohammad Fahmi Aliman thanked the IFSC and the delegates for coming to Singapore and highlighted the impact that climbing has had on the southeast Asian country with more than 40 gyms now operating. Delegates from the 46 National Federations were presented with the IFSC 2022 Annual Report which was introduced by the IFSC President Marco Scolaris. He highlighted some of the achievements of the year including climbing’s introduction to the European Championships in Munich, Germany and the successful IFSC Climbing Summit. IFSC Vice-President Wolfgang Wabel presented a review of the World Cup Series, The World Games, Youth World Championships and European Championships before introducing a video to promote the upcoming 2023 World Championships in Bern, Switzerland. This was followed by the selection of Seoul as the host of the 2025 Climbing World Championships after a presentation from the Korea Alpine Federation (KAF). Delegates received an update on the work of the Sport Department from IFSC Sport Director Maddie Dunn which included the event strategy and the bidding process as well as information regarding the future of Athlete Screening. This was followed by a presentation from IFSC Vice-President Kobinata Toru who provided updates regarding Paris 2024 and the Olympic Qualifier Series that will begin early next year. A proposal to change the age eligibility from age 16 to 17 for the senior IFSC events, which includes the World Cups and World Championships, from 2025 onwards was put to the delegates with 57% voting in favour. Olympian and Athletes’ Commission President Shauna Coxsey spoke passionately about the value that athletes give to having positions on the board and representation throughout the IFSC Commissions structure. She also shared the focus of the Athletes’ Commission for 2023, Speed and Boulder formats, athlete health and fairness and inclusion. The new IFSC Media and Communications Director Fabrizio Rossini delivered his strategy for the future which includes a new user-friendly website and a focus on internal communications with the Federations and a new approach to content which showcases the athletes. The final report of the General Assembly was given by the IFSC Development Director Silvia Verdolini who highlighted the value of the development programmes including the World Climbing Academy, the Women in Sport High Performance Pathway, and the routesetter clinics. Prior to the closing remarks from the IFSC President, delegates were asked to vote for the hosts of the 2024 and 2025 General Assemblies, which were duly awarded to Santiago in 2024 and Cyprus in 2025 after presentations from Willy Montenegro, President of the Chilean Climbing Federation, and Pavlos Georgiades, President of Cyprus Mountaineering Climbing & Orienteering. Looking ahead to the rest of 2023, President Scolaris highlighted the European Games in Poland, the Pan American Games in Chile and the Asian Games in China which will include Climbing for the very first time.

CLIMBING - Int News 03 Feb, 2023

IFSC welcomes IPC decision to consider Para-climbing as additional Sports

Sports Bulletin Report Torino (Italy):-The Executive Board of the International Federation of Sport Climbing (IFSC) held an informal meeting, acknowledging the decision of the International Paralympic Committee (IPC) to not include Paraclimbing in the list of 22 sports that will be part of the initial programme at the Paralympic Games LA28. The IFSC Executive Board also welcomed the opportunity that the IPC gave LA28 to consider Paraclimbing for a potential inclusion as an additional sport, along with para surfing. Should the Organising Committee of the Olympic and Paralympic Games LA28 put forward any sport for consideration, a final decision will be taken by the IPC Governing Board by the end of 2023. IFSC President Marco Scolaris said: “We are extremely proud that in such a short space of time we could put together a strong proposal, and one that is now being considered to be an additional sport. The IFSC was founded in 2007 and we are confirmed in the Olympic Games LA28, and being so close with the Paralympic Games is a big step and achievement for us as a sport. It feels like we have grown together with our brothers and sisters at the International Surfing Association in the Olympic environment, and I hope that we both get to showcase our Paralympic athletes in Los Angeles, California, a place that has a big Climbing and Surfing culture and community.” Sebastian Depke, Chair of the IFSC Paraclimbing Committee, said: “The past years’ work preparing for this step was incredibly challenging for the Paraclimbing Committee. Implementing the IPC Classification system was one of our biggest tasks. Being considered as an additional sport for LA28 underlines the success of our work and this is the time for me to say ‘Thank you!’ to all those people behind the scenes that showed up just at the right moment to help. We received help from other para sports and National Paralympic Committees, as well as other commissions and staff – they really made everything possible in record time. The success of Paraclimbing in its very first application for the Paralympic Games is also their success. No matter if it was just explaining us things, giving hints or helping hands-on at the field of play, they made the difference for us. So, thank you!”

CLIMBING - Int News 19 Jan, 2023

IFSC to take steps for the protection of athletes during international events

Sports Bulletin Report Torino (Italy): The Executive Board of the International Federation of Sport Climbing (IFSC) decided to evaluate and adopt future new measures to protect the health and safety of the athletes participating in IFSC events, and to further promote fair competition. These measures will be implemented in 2024, in addition to what has already been in place in 2021 and 2022, and, just like the current measures, they may result in the suspension of an athlete’s license. The possible set of new age limits, to be discussed at the upcoming XIX IFSC General Assembly in Singapore, will also be part of this process of prevention and protection. Additionally, a series of educational activities will be set up for National Federations, team officials, and athletes, providing indications, methods, and the list of medical exams that the IFSC Medical & Anti-Doping Commission will adopt to confirm the license. “We, as the world governing body of Sport Climbing, feel the essential mandate to always put our athletes first, and protect them,” said IFSC President Marco Scolaris. The IFSC will now take the proper time to put together all the necessary information and know-how, following a number of consultations with several bodies – including the IFSC Medical Commission, Athletes’ Commission, legal experts, and the International Olympic Committee.

CLIMBING - Int News 15 Dec, 2022

Morocco welcomed by IFSC, as the 96th Member of Federation

Sports Bulletin Report Torino (Italy): A letter, signed by International Federation of Sport Climbing (IFSC) Secretary General Debra Gawrych, and sent to Nourrdine Bouchaal, Vice President of the Federation Royale Marocaine de Ski Sports de Montagne (FRMSSM), officially welcomed Morocco as a new Member Federation of the IFSC. IFSC Treasurer Pierre You also traveled to Morocco to personally congratulate on behalf of the entire IFSC Executive Board, and welcome the FRMSSM in the Climbing family. Morocco is the 96th Member Federation of the IFSC – the ninth in Africa along with Algeria, Botswana, Cameroon, Mauritius, Rwanda, Senegal, South Africa, and Uganda. “I wish to congratulate the FRMSSM for their efforts in promoting our sport, and we look forward to our fruitful cooperation to develop Sport Climbing in Morocco,” IFSC Secretary General Debra Gawrych said in the letter. The decision will finally be ratified at the XIX IFSC General Assembly, taking place in Singapore from 31 March to 1 April 2023.

CLIMBING - Int News 28 Nov, 2022

IFSC Climbing Summit Celebrated recent achievement

Sports Bulletin Report Torino (Italy): The second edition of the International Federation of Sport Climbing (IFSC) Climbing Summit took place at Nuvola Lavazza, in Torino, Italy, on 25 and 26 November 2022. The two-day event was opened by the Mayor of Torino, Stefano Lo Russo, who highlighted the link between the city and its mountain culture to the 35 National Federation delegates in attendance. IFSC President Marco Scolaris set the tone of the Summit in his opening speech, welcoming the first Sport Climbing Olympic gold medallist Janja Garnbret of Slovenia, Paraclimbing Committee Athletes’ Representative Lucia Capovilla of Italy, Tokyo 2020 Olympian Sean McColl of Canada, and former athlete Jérôme Meyer of France, for an athlete-first approach. Various topics were presented and discussed – including strategy, governance, events, media and development of Sport Climbing – to the attendees and the delegates joining online from around the world. Olympic champion Garnbret took part in a wide-ranging interview with Master of Ceremonies Peter Stafford, of MSM PR & Communications, a Swiss based communications agency, serving as a voice to inform the National Federations of the issues and thoughts of the current competitors. Garnbret also joined a panel that included IFSC Treasurer Pierre You to investigate the challenges, reputation, and risk that may be posed for the future of the organisation. In a split session, IFSC Vice Presidents Kobinata Toru and Wolfgang Wabel were joined by Athletes’ Commission Vice President Sean McColl, and by Founder and Managing Director of European Championships Management Paul Bristow, who looked back at Munich 2022 before looking forward to the next Olympic Games with Vincent Caussé, Paris 2024 Sport Manager for Sport Climbing. Bruno Cavrois and Samuel Bencteux from Warner Bros. Discovery showed the positive impact of the IFSC World Cup Series broadcasts before two interactive sessions focussed specifically on sharing experience, ideas and potential problems from the National Federations themselves. The delegates shared both positive and negatives aspects of the increased exposure and growth of Sport Climbing from their respective nations and territories, to enable a common knowledge ran throughout the separate organisations and lessons could be learned and implemented, no matter of geography or infrastructure. A final presentation by IFSC Research & Development Director Silvia Verdolini highlighted the many education programs put in place by the IFSC, followed by a closing address from IFSC President Marco Scolaris, Secretary General Debra Gawrych, and General Director Piero Rebaudengo.

CLIMBING - Int News 25 Nov, 2022

Second IFSC Climbing Summit starts at Nuvola Lavazza

Sports Bulletin Report Torino (Italy): The second edition of the International Federation of Sport Climbing (IFSC) Climbing Summit, taking place at Nuvola Lavazza on 25 and 26 November 2022. The two-day event will allow National Federations’ delegates to hear and discuss various topics including strategy, governance, events, media and development from the world of Sport Climbing. In the first Summit since Climbing’s debut at an Olympic Games at Tokyo 2020, there will be a particular focus on athletes as Olympic champion Janja Garnbret of Slovenia will take centre stage to share her experiences and talk about the topics she feels is affecting the world of Climbing at present. Canada’s Sean McColl, Vice President of the IFSC Athletes’ Commission, and Italy’s Lucia Capovilla, Athletes’ Representative of the IFSC Paraclimbing Committee, will also be involved in sessions throughout the two days to add further athletes’ perspective. There will be a look toward the Olympic future of the sport with a presentation from Vincent Caussé, Paris 2024 Sport Manager for Sport Climbing, and an update and review of the World Cup broadcasting from representatives of Warner Bros. Discovery. “We still regret that our community could not celebrate Climbing at the Olympic Games Tokyo 2020 in person, because of the restrictions imposed by Covid-19,” the IFSC President said. “Now, during these two days, we want to share feelings, emotions, concerns: that’s why we are here, Climbing Summit number two. I wish that, moving towards the summit together, we could shape the future of the sport which changed our lives, for many of us, for the better. Let’s dream higher.”

CLIMBING - Int News 09 Nov, 2022

IFSC and World Academy of Sports announce new partnership

Sports Bulletin Report TORINO, Italy: The International Federation of Sport Climbing (IFSC) has announced that it has formed a partnership with the World Academy of Sport (WAOS) for the provision of education and training services. As part of the new partnership, WAOS will assist the IFSC embark on the structuring of its education and training resources for the members initially commencing in the area of coaching. Resources will expand in the future for other key stakeholders of the IFSC including athletes, officials, and administrators. In order to develop these resources, the Censeo Platform will be used for the distribution of content and certification of stakeholders of the sport. Marco Scolaris, President of the IFSC, said: “We have cultivated projects to further develop the resources we offer to our members for years. To provide long-term opportunities for those looking to get into and make progress in our sport. Reflecting on what we have learned throughout the COVID-19 pandemic has allowed us to identify what is important in our approach to development, education, and training. We look forward to working with WAoS whose experience in this area is invaluable.” Chris Solly, CEO of WAoS, adds: “It is very exciting to announce the IFSC as a new international sport partner for WAoS. For sports relatively new into the Olympic Programme such as the IFSC, it is essential that they develop the tools that provide opportunities in the long-term for their sports. We are thrilled to be working with them and ultimately helping them to achieve their vision for Sport Climbing.”

CLIMBING - Int News 25 Oct, 2022

IFSC Lunches Athletes Career Transition Programme

Sports Bulletin Report Torino (Italy): The International Federation of Sport Climbing (IFSC) has announced the IFSC Athletes’ Career Transition Programme, launching today with its first boot camp, and already confirmed for a second one. The Programme will comprise a series of interactive, virtual courses hosted by Gabriela Mueller Mendoza – a professional speaker, executive communication coach, author, and professional trainer with a Latin-Swiss style. Both active and retired athletes have been invited to participate. Courses will be free. The course will help the participants in gaining valuable experience in different areas and skills, such as self-awareness, networking and relationships, transfer of skills from sports into other fields, entrepreneurship and double professional paths, and more. “We are immensely proud to have launched the Programme,” said IFSC Research & Development Director Silvia Verdolini. “This is only one of many development projects we have been working on in the last few months, since the creation of the IFSC Research & Development Department. The Athletes’ Career Transition Programme, once again, puts our athletes at the top of our priority list. And it is fantastic to see how they have responded to the invitation, fully booking the first two boot camps in just a couple of hours.” The list of participants to the first boot camp includes Tokyo 2020 Olympians Petra Klingler of Switzerland and Alannah Yip of Canada, IFSC World Cup medallist Erik Noya Cardona of Spain, and IFSC Paraclimbing World Cup medallist Tim Schaffrina of Germany.

CLIMBING - Int News 21 Oct, 2022

Narasaki grabs gold, Ogata and Fujii complete the sweep

Sports Bulletin Report Morioka (Japan): An extremely action-packed day closed in Morioka, Iwate, Japan, where the final International Federation of Sport Climbing (IFSC) World Cup event of the 2022 season is currently taking place. After moving five climbers into the final round, Team Japan’s domination culminated in a triple medal. Narasaki Tomoa put the icing on the cake of a fantastic month of October, adding a World Cup gold to the three Asian Championships titles he won in Seoul, South Korea, earlier this month. “It’s been definitely a tough round, but I’m glad I have won the first-ever World Cup medal in this format,” said Narasaki. “To be honest, this morning I didn’t really feel like having two rounds on the same day, but I kept my focus and gave my best.” Scoring 84.3 points in the Boulder round, and 72.1 in the Lead one, Narasaki placed well ahead of his closest rival – Ogata Yoshiyuki – who signed the best performance on the Lead wall, but only solved one of the four Boulder problems. Ogata’s final score was 138.4. Despite being in the top position halfway through the final, thanks to a solid Boulder round where he flashed three boulders out of four, France’s Paul Jenft eventually concluded the final in fourth place, scoring 129.7 points. Yannick Flohé of Germany followed in fifth position with 128.5 points, while two more Japanese climbers – Homma Taisei and Kawamata Rei – respectively placed sixth with 117.5 points, and seventh with 109.5.