Sports Bulletin

Sports Bulletin Report MOSCOW (September 17, 2021):-Shortly after being officially declared open by Debra Gawrych, Secretary General of the International Federation of Sport Climbing (IFSC), the 2021 IFSC Climbing World Championships in Moscow, Russia, crowned Danyil Boldyrev of Ukraine and Natalia Kalucka of Poland as the 2021 men’s and women’s Speed world champions. The 29-year-old Ukrainian Speed specialist won the second Speed world title of his multi-decorated career, surviving an extremely tight battle against Italy’s Gian Luca Zodda in the first round – where he won by 0.004 seconds – and prevailing over Kazakh Olympian Rishat Khaibullin and France’s Guillaume Moro in the two following races. In the final, decisive one, the experienced athlete nailed the second fastest time of the whole final, clocking in at 5.73 seconds and beating Spain’s 27-year-old Erik Noya Cardona – who won his very first international medal, in the most important competition. The men’s podium was completed by United States’ Noah Bratschi (21), with Moro finishing in fourth place. In the women’s event, 19-year-old Natalia Kalucka went through a rollercoaster of emotions, eventually finishing on the highest step of the World Championships podium with the gold medal around her neck: her first international medal as a senior athlete. Indeed, in her first race, Kalucka fought and beat her twin sister Aleksandra, who recently returned to compete after a long break caused by an injury on her left leg. After winning her quarterfinal against Elizaveta Ivanova of the CFR, in the semi-final and final rounds, the young Polish climber had to face two Tokyo 2020 Olympians, and holders of the fastest times in the world: Aleksandra Miroslaw of Poland, and Iuliia Kaplina of the CFR. Despite a fall by Miroslaw, and a slip by Kaplina, Natalia Kalucka didn’t take anything for granted in the two final races, sealing her semi-final win with the fantastic time of 7.07 seconds – her new personal best – and signing off with 7.18 in the race for the gold medal. In the small final, Miroslaw claimed bronze, placing third with the time of 7.00 seconds against Ekaterina Barashchuk of the CFR.

Sports Bulletin Report MOSCOW (September 16, 2021): The International Federation of Sport Climbing (IFSC) World Championships 2021 officially opened in Moscow, Russia, this evening, with distinguished guests and a combination of dancers, music, and a mesmerising display of lights welcoming masked spectators to the Irina Viner-Usmanova Gymnastics Palace. Lights and lasers opened the show to an electric mix of music, with the words ‘fastest’, ‘highest’, and ‘strongest’ projected on the climbing walls to depict the three Sport Climbing disciplines of Speed, Lead, and Boulder. Dancers then took to the stage, with giant glittering flower petals in the centre of the performance opening to reveal a spectacular, contorted figure inside. Opening ceremony hosts expressed their gratitude to the IFSC, CFR, and to the Moscow Department of Sports that the 18th edition of the Climbing World Championships is taking place in Moscow. In addition to championships in Boulder, Lead, and Speed, the city will also this week welcome the Paraclimbing World Championships, with qualifications already complete and finals taking place tomorrow evening. A total of 301 climbers will participate in the Climbing World Championships from 16 to 21 September (188 in Boulder, 178 in Lead, and 99 in Speed), and 114 are competing in the Paraclimbing World Championships from 15 to 17 September. Flag bearers paraded the stage on behalf of each of the 44 nationalities participating in the IFSC Climbing and Paraclimbing World Championships. Esteemed guests were next invited to share their words, including First Deputy Head of the Moscow Department of Sports and Olympic champion Svetlana Bazhanova, President of the ROC and four-time Olympic champion, CFR President Dmitrii Bychkov, and IFSC Secretary General Debra Gawrych. Each welcomed the championships to Moscow in front of an arena of masked and socially-distanced spectators, thanking all those involved for their perseverance in making the competition happen during the pandemic. Determination and hope were key themes throughout the opening speeches, with Sport Climbing also being congratulated on its successful Olympic debut at the Olympic Games Tokyo 2020 this August. “We dreamed of this moment and despite the pandemic and lockdowns, here we are,” said CFR President Dmitrii Bychkov. “It is heartening to share this with some of the best Sport Climbing athletes, as well as those watching around the globe. Thanks to the IFSC for making it happen.” “It took time for Sport Climbing to become an Olympic sport, but you persevered and now we are here. What an incredible show in Tokyo and there is an incredible future for Sport Climbing. I wish continued success to the athletes and hope everyone enjoys the show,” said the President of the ROC. IFSC Secretary General Debra Gawrych talked of the triumphs of Sport Climbing in spite of the pandemic, and expressed her appreciation to those who have helped Sport Climbing achieve the Olympic dream, before officially declaring the 2021 IFSC Climbing and Paraclimbing World Championships open.

Sports Bulletin TORINO (September 10, 2021): The International Federation of Sport Climbing (IFSC) and the Indonesian Sport Climbing Federation (FPTI) are disappointed to announce that the IFSC Speed World Cup scheduled in Jakarta, Indonesia, on 30 and 31 October 2021, has been cancelled as a result of the ongoing COVID-19 pandemic. Therefore, the IFSC World Cup taking place from 1 to 3 October in Seoul, South Korea, will be the closing chapter of both the 2021 Boulder and Speed season. “It is heartbreaking to make this decision,” said IFSC President Marco Scolaris. “The IFSC and the Sport Climbing community were eager to finally bring the international Sport Climbing circuit in Indonesia. My gratitude goes to the FPTI, and President Yenny Wahid, for their valuable collaboration and effort. I am sure that the debut of the IFSC World Cup Series in Indonesia is only postponed, we will be there next year!”

ABDUL JABBAR FAISAL Islamabad (September 10, 2021):-The National Rock and Sports Climbing Championship 2021 will be held from September 25 to 27, 2021 in the capital city Islamabad. A spokesman for Alpine Club of Pakistan (ACP) told www.sports-bulletin.com on Friday that rock competitions would be held at Margalla Hills while climbing events would take place at Pakistan Sports Complex at 45 feet. “The is going to organize under the banner of Alpine Club of Pakistan and National Mountaineering and Sports Climbing Federation in which top players across the country will show their skills during the three days' competitions. The competitions will be staged in two categories including Speed and Lead. Players can be registered till September 20, 2021, “he added.

SPORTS BULLETIN REPORT Islamabad (September 8, 2021):- A 52-foot high Climbing Wall will be named to Mohammad Ali Sadpara, a great Pakistani mountaineer, who had passed away during the expedition on the second highest peak of the world K-2. Khyber Pakhtunkhwa (KPK) government installed the Climbing Wall worth of Rs.10 millions at Peshawar Sports Complex aiming to provide good and international standard facilities of this adventure sport to youth of the province.  Te 52 feet high wall boasting three categories including speed, technical and vertical, is estimated to cost Rs10 million and will be constructed under the PM’s 1000 Playground Facilities project at Peshawar Sports Complex. Mohammad Ali Sadpara, John Snorri from Iceland and Jaun Pablo Mohr from Chile were on the mission to scale K2 in winter but lost contact after they started their push for the K2 summit from camp 3 in the first week of February. After losing contact with the team, multiple rescue operations were carried out with the help of Pakistan Army’s helicopters and PAF C-130 aircraft but to no avail. On Feb 18, Sajid, Sadpara’s son, declared his father dead.

SPORTS BULLETIN REPORT Kranj (September 4, 2021):-The IFSC World Cup Kranj 2021 closed in fantastic fashion, with Olympic Champion Janja Garnbret putting on a show and securing the 31st World Cup gold medal of her fantastic career – a tally that now puts her ahead of South Korea’s Jain Kim, and makes her the most successful climber of all time. Competing on her home soil, 22-year-old Garnbret crushed the competition, entering the stage last and signing off with 49+ – only a couple of holds short of the top. South Korea’s Seo Chaehyun (17) followed in second place with 46 and won silver, while United States’ Natalia Grossman (20) took bronze with 41+. With tonight’s victory, Garnbret also clinched the 2021 Lead World Cup title, jumping from fourth to first place in the ranking and concluding the season with 300 points; Natalia Grossman placed second with 296, and Laura Rogora (20) of Italy finished third with 278. In a challenging, hard-fought men’s final, Japan’s 28-year-old Masahiro Higuchi pocketed the first World Cup gold medal of his career, adding it up to the only other one he previously won: a bronze, also in Kranj, in 2018. Despite failing to top the final route, Higuchi closed with a score of 37, and prevailed over a well-balanced field of competitors: Luka Potocar (19) of Slovenia followed in second position with 31+, climbing on a World Cup podium for the very first time in his career; Sebastian Halenke (26) of Germany completed the podium in third place – also with 31+. Italy’s Stefano Ghisolfi won the 2021 men’s Lead World Cup title with 319 points, United States’ Sean Bailey followed in second place with 277, while tonight’s gold medalist Masahiro Higuchi took third position with 263. The 2021 IFSC Season will now move to Moscow, Russia, where the IFSC Climbing and Paraclimbing World Championships are scheduled from 16 to 21 September. The final World Cup stage of the season, then, will take place in Seoul, South Korea, from 1 to 3 October.

SPORTS DESK Islamabad (August 31, 2021):- Anastasia Sanders from United States of America (USA) show impressive performance and claimed three gold medals at the International Federation of Sport Climbing (IFSC) Youth World Championships 2021 that held from August 21 to 30 in Voronezh, Russia, where 417 athletes representing 37 different nationalities. Athletes contested across three age categories in Boulder, Lead, and Speed, with those participating in all three disciplines also being considered for a combined ranking. In her debut international Sport Climbing competition, 14-year-old Anastasia (Annie) Sanders of the USA won not one, not two, but three gold medals. Sanders placed first in Youth B (athletes born 14 or 15 years before the year of competition) Lead and Boulder, in addition to taking the combined win for her stellar performance throughout the championships. The US climber topped every single Youth B route of the competition, was the only athlete to top all four blocks in the Boulder final – using only one attempt, or ‘flashing’, three of them – and narrowly missed out on a top 10 finish in Speed, settling for 11th place. A triple gold medal win marks a glittering start to Sanders’ career, pinning her as one-to-watch in future competitions. Another noteworthy performance was that of Great Britain’s Hamish McArthur (19), who won a gold medal in both Boulder and Lead, as well as a combined silver medal. Competing in the Junior age category (athletes born 18 or 19 years before the year of competition), McArthur topped all four problems in the Boulder final with two flashes, and secured a top in Lead. The Brit also competed in Speed, putting him on the podium a third time for a combined medal. In the Youth A competition (athletes born 16 or 17 years before the year of competition), Slovenia’s Sara Copar (16) took the win in Lead and placed second in Boulder. Copar also made the quarter final in Speed, setting her in first position in the overall combined ranking and leaving the Slovenian with two gold medals and one silver. Those who ranked first in the Junior and Youth A categories of Boulder, Lead, and Speed are eligible for a place to compete at the World Games 2022 in Birmingham, Alabama, USA. A total of six quota places will be allocated following the invitation and confirmation of the IFSC and respective National Federations in early 2022, as per the IFSC Qualification System for the World Games. A special mention goes to Zoe Garcia Molina of Argentina (17), Lana Baki? (15) of Croatia, Luke Goh Wen Bin (18) of Singapore, and Poksakon Chotikkrai (18) of Thailand, with each being the sole athlete to represent their country in the championships. The full Junior podium line-ups are as follows: Junior men’s Boulder Hamish McArthur (GBR) Rei Kawamata (JPN) Paul Jenft (FRA) Junior women’s Boulder Naïlé Meignan (FRA) Emily Phillips (GBR) Lucija Tarkus (SLO) Junior women’s Lead Nonoha Kume (JPN) Lucija Tarkus (SLO) Camille Pouget (FRA) Junior men’s Lead Hamish McArthur (GBR) Paul Jenft (FRA) Rei Kawamata (JPN) Junior men’s Speed Iaroslav Pashkov (RUS) Ukolov Danila (RUS) Lawrence Bogeschdorfer (AUT) Junior women’s Speed Franziska Ritter (GER) Giulia Randi (ITA) Capucine Viglione (FRA) Junior men’s Combined Lawrence Bogeschdorfer (AUT) Hamish McArthur (GBR) Johannes Hofherr (AUT) Junior women’s Combined Emily Phillips (GBR) Lucija Tarkus (SLO) Mahya Darabian (IRI) The full Youth A podium line-ups are as follows: Youth A men’s Boulder Hannes Van Duysen (BEL) Emil Zimmermann (GER) Thorben Perry Bloem (GER) Youth A women’s Boulder Zélia Avezou (FRA) Sara Copar (SLO) Alessia Mabboni (ITA) Youth A men’s Lead Haruki Uemura (JPN) Mejdi Schalck (FRA) Timotej Romšak (SLO) Youth A women’s Lead Sara Copar (SLO) Alessia Mabboni (ITA) Liza Novak (SLO) Youth A men’s Speed Maksim Ryzhov (RUS) Hryhorii Ilchyshyn (UKR) Marco Rontini (ITA) Youth A women’s Speed Beatrice Colli (ITA) Nuria Brockfeld (GER) Callie Close (USA) Youth A men’s Combined Edvards Gruzitis (LAT) Toby Roberts (GBR) Timotej Romšak (SLO) Youth A women’s Combined Sara Copar (SLO) Callie Close (USA) Liza Novak (SLO) The full Youth B podium line-ups are as follows: Youth B men’s Boulder Nikolay Rusev (BUL) Sorato Anraku (JPN) Augustine Chi (USA) Youth B women’s Boulder Anastasia Sanders (USA) Meije Lerondel (FRA) Sina Willy (AUT) Youth B men’s Lead Sorato Anraku (JPN) Hugo Hoyer (USA) Dillon Countryman (USA) Youth B women’s Lead Anastasia Sanders (USA) Meije Lerondel (FRA) Mio Nukui (JPN) Youth B men’s Speed Kirill Koldomov (RUS) Samuel Watson (USA) Yusuke Sugimoto (JPN) Youth B women’s Speed Daria Marciniak (POL) Francesca Matuella (ITA) Julie Fritsche (GER) Youth B men’s Combined Dillon Countryman (USA) Nikolay Rusev (BUL) Timo Uznik (AUT) Youth B women’s Combined Anastasia Sanders (USA) Anastasia Kobets (UKR) Sina Willy (AUT)

SPORTS NEWS Torino (August 20, 2021):-As a result of the ongoing COVID-19 pandemic, the International Federation of Sport Climbing (IFSC) and the Chinese Mountaineering Association (CMA) are disappointed to announce the cancellation of two world cups in China at the tail-end of the 2021 season. The IFSC Lead and Speed World Cup in Xiamen from 15 to 17 October, and the IFSC Boulder and Speed World Cup in Wujiang from 22 to 24 October, will no longer take place. Therefore, the World Cup in Kranj, Slovenia, will see the closing of the Lead season from 3 to 4 September, and the Boulder season will conclude in Seoul, South Korea, from 1 to 3 October. The finale of the shortened Speed season remains undisrupted, from 30 to 31 October in Jakarta, Indonesia. IFSC President Marco Scolaris said, “After a disrupted 2020 season, thanks to the efforts of our staff, officials, event organisers, athletes, and National Federations, the 2021 season has been able to go ahead successfully so far. However, the pandemic is still very real and therefore, we’re disappointed that due to COVID-19 the world cups in Xiamen and Wujiang will not go ahead in October. We thank our friends at the CMA for their support and hope that Sport Climbing will return to China in 2022.”

SPORTS NEWS Tokyo (August 3, 2021):-For the very first time in history, Sport Climbing athletes today participated in an Olympic Games, as the sport made its long-anticipated debut at Tokyo 2020. A total of 20 climbers took to the Olympic walls within Tokyo’s Aomi Urban Sports Park, competing in the Men’s Combined qualification event for a spot in Thursday’s final. First on the agenda was Speed, where France’s Bassa Mawem triumphed and took the men’s Speed Olympic Record with a time of 5.45 seconds – just 0.25 seconds shy of the current World Record. Joining the sub-six-second scores were Mawem’s younger brother, Mickael, with 5.95 seconds, and Japan’s Tomoa Narasaki, who chose not to climb a second time after stopping the clock at 5.94 in his first run. After placing third in the Speed round, Mickael Mawem put on another stellar performance in Boulder by achieving three tops and four zones. Securing first place, the French athlete positioned himself firmly at the top of the Combined table with a score of three, followed closely by Narasaki with four points. The pair were the only two athletes to find a solution to the second of four blocs, which mixed together a concoction of balance and strength. The Czech Republic’s Adam Ondra closed the Boulder round in third place with two tops and three zones. When asked his thoughts on Sport Climbing’s debut at the Olympic Games, Ondra said: “It's a big step for Sport Climbing. In the world of the competition, it's been a big dream for years, and climbing deserves to be here as a sport. Unfortunately there's only one set of medals, but it will be a good stepping stone for the future where hopefully it will be all three single disciplines." The Men’s Combined qualification round concluded with Lead, with Austria’s Jakob Schubert taking the top spot with a score of 42+, matched by Colin Duffy of the USA. Spain’s Alberto Ginés López reached 41+, therefore closing the Lead round as the only other athlete to climb above hold 40. When asked about the conditions during the competition – over 30°C and 80% humidity – Duffy said: "It was definitely in the back of my head, the fact that I'm not really used to finding this much humidity. Lead is a really unforgiving discipline, one slip or just one small mistake and you’re off. But I was able to just kind of put it in the back of my head and get in my zone and just do what I do best, which is just climb." Despite placing 11th in Lead, Mickael Mawem bagged himself an unbeatable birthday present: the top position in the Combined ranking and thus, a spot in the final. His brother Bassa faced an unfortunate bicep injury during the Lead round, falling at hold seven. However, thanks to his first place in Speed, Mawem achieved a place in the final alongside his younger sibling. An update on his condition will be given in the morning once he has been assessed by his medical team. Following today’s qualification, the following eight Olympians will head into the Men’s Combined Final this Thursday: 1. Mickael Mawem (FRA) 2. Tomoa Narasaki (JPN) 3. Colin Duffy (USA) 4. Jakob Schubert (AUT) 5. Adam Ondra (CZE) 6. Alberto Ginés López (ESP) 7. Bassa Mawem (FRA) 8. Nathaniel Coleman (USA) When asked about participating in his first Olympic Games – the very first in which Sport Climbing has been featured on the programme – Ginés López said: "Everything is amazing. Every day is amazing. I'm so excited to be here, to compete in a few days." Next up on Sport Climbing’s Olympic schedule is the women’s Combined qualification, which will take place tomorrow, 4 August, from 5:00 PM (UTC+9:00). The men’s Combined final is scheduled for 5 August, with the women’s Combined final taking place on 6 August.

SPORTS DESK ISLAMABAD (July 13, 2021):-Originally scheduled to take place in the Slovenian capital of Ljubljana, the IFSC Lead World Cup in September is now to be held 20 kilometres away in Kranj, Slovenia – the 25th time a Sport Climbing World Cup has been hosted in the country’s third-largest city. As a result of the venue relocation, the first World Cup following the Olympic Games Tokyo 2020 is now set to take place from 3 to 4 September, as opposed to 4 to 5 September as initially listed on the 2021 IFSC calendar. With four Slovenian athletes making finals in the first two Lead world cups of the season and Slovenia’s very own star Janja Garnbret claiming the top podium position at each, the penultimate Lead World Cup of 2021 on the team’s home soil will be a must-see. At the 2019 Lead World Cup in Kranj, Slovenia’s Lucka Rakovec took home bronze; Will the 20-year-old earn another medal this year?