Sports Bulletin

SPORTS BULLETIN REPORT Torino (October 5, 2021):-The International Federation of Sport Climbing (IFSC) is proud to unveil the calendar of the upcoming 2022 season, opening with the XVIII IFSC General Assembly in Salt Lake City, Utah, USA. 2022 IFSC WORLD CUP SERIES Consisting of 13 stages in total and distributed over 10 countries and three continents, the 2022 IFSC World Cup Series will take place between April and September. The opening World Cup competition of the season will take place in Moscow, Russia, while Salt Lake City is also expected to host another doubleheader, replicating the successful formula that debuted in May 2021. Hosting the only IFSC World Cup in both Boulder and Lead, Innsbruck, Austria, marks the midpoint of the season. July will see the return of three long-standing landmarks on the calendar, with world cups in Villars, Switzerland; Chamonix, France; and Briançon, France. The full schedule of the 2022 IFSC World Cup Series is as follows: 1-3 April – Moscow (RUS) – Boulder, Speed 8-10 April – Meiringen (SUI) – Boulder 29 April-1 May – TBD location in Japan – Boulder 6-8 May – Seoul (KOR) – Boulder, Speed 20-22 May – Salt Lake City (USA) – Boulder 27-29 May – Salt Lake City (USA) – Boulder, Speed 22-25 June – Innsbruck (AUT) – Boulder, Lead 1-3 July – Villars (SUI) – Lead, Speed 8-10 July – Chamonix (FRA) – Lead, Speed 22-23 July – Briançon (FRA) – Lead 3-4 September – TBD location in Slovenia – Lead 22-24 September – Bali (INA) – Lead, Speed 28-30 September – TBD location in China – Lead, Speed MULTI-SPORT EVENTS Following the outstanding Olympic debut at Tokyo 2020, Sport Climbing will feature at three different multi-sport events in 2022: the World Games Birmingham 2022, where all three disciplines will be contested; the European Championships Munich 2022, with Boulder, Lead, and Speed being joined by the Olympic Games Paris 2024 format of Boulder & Lead; and the 19th edition of the Asian Games, set to take place in Hangzhou, China. YOUTH AND PARACLIMBING The yearly IFSC Youth World Championships will be organised in the United States of America, in a city still to be defined, between 22 and 31 August. Paraclimbing’s 2022 competition calendar will be presented later in 2021. IFSC President Marco Scolaris commented: “The year 2021 has been a non-stop challenge, for us and for the whole world. However, we made our debut at the most unique edition of the Olympic Games, and, eventually, we succeeded organising a number of great IFSC competitions. The calendar of the 2022 season is not just a mere list of dates, locations, and competitions. It is a symbol of hope, and we are very much looking forward to bringing the Sport Climbing world united again, with no exceptions.”

SPORTS BULLETIN REPORT Islamabad (October 1, 2021):-Sirbaz Khan, the first Pakistani to climb 9 over 8000 meters peaks including a successful expedition of Mount Dhaulagiri at an altitude of 8167 meters. The 32 years old climber Sirbaz Khan, who belongs from Aliabad, Hunza began his professional climbing career in 2016. Sirbaz became the first Pakistani to summit Mount Lhotse, the world’s fourth-highest mountain at 8,516 meters in Nepal without using supplementary oxygen. His other 8,000 meters summits include K2, Nanga Parbat, Broad Peak, Manaslu., Anapurna, Everest Gasherbrum II, and now Dhaulagiri. On four of his 8,000m peaks expeditions, Khan had accompanied Mohammad Ali Sadpara. List of Summits 1- Nanga Parbat 8125-M 2017 2- K2 8611-M 2018 3- Broad Peak 8047-M 2019 4- Manaslu 8163-M 2019 5- Lhotse Peak 8516-M 2019 6- Anapurna 8091- M 2021 7- Everest 8848 – M 2021 8- Gasherbrum II 8035-M 9- Dhaulagiri 8167-M

SPORTS REPORT Torino, Russia (September 27, 2021):-Elections for the International Federation of Sport Climbing (IFSC) Athletes’ Commission took place at the 2021 IFSC Climbing World Championships in Moscow, Russia, with Olympian Shauna Coxsey MBE, of Great Britain, elected as President. Voted into the commission as a member during the 2019 World Championships in Hachioji, Japan, Coxsey was subsequently selected as Vice President by fellow members, before being elected as President in 2021. Coxsey won the overall Boulder World Cup title in both 2016 and 2017 and has 30 IFSC World Cup medals, as well as two World Championship medals, to her name. The Brit bowed out from professional Sport Climbing with a commendable tenth place at the Olympic Games Tokyo 2020 this August. When asked about her election as President of the IFSC Athletes’ Commission, Coxsey said: “After 24 years climbing, and over a decade competing as a professional athlete, I feel it pertinent to use my experience and give back to the sport that’s given me so much. I have long been passionate about being a part of the positive development of our sport. Having recently retired from professional competition climbing I have both the understanding of what it takes to be up on the stage, and the distance and perspective of now being on the other side of the fence. As well, I have also spent the last two years sitting on IFSC Executive Board as the Athletes’ Commission Vice President. There are lots of opportunities as well as challenges for our sport over the coming years and I am looking forward to working closely with the IFSC to make sure the athletes voice is at the heart of our sports development.” Coxsey succeeded Canadian climber Sean McColl as President, who previously held the position after being elected during the 2016 edition of the IFSC World Championships in Paris, France. McColl will retain his seat on the commission as a member, alongside the newly elected Michael Piccolruaz of Italy, who replaces the Netherlands’ Jorg Verhoeven. Olympic bronze medallist Jakob Schubert of Austria, Anna Tsyganova of Russia, and Dmitrii Timofeev of Russia were all reconfirmed as commission members after their four-year terms following the 2016 elections drew to a close. The six athletes elected in Moscow, including President Shauna Coxsey, will join those elected in 2019 on the commission. A meeting is yet to be scheduled to select a Vice President, who will sit alongside Coxsey as athlete representative on the IFSC Executive Board. “Congratulations to Shauna Coxsey, one of our first Olympians, on her election as Athletes’ Commission President. I look forward to continuing our work together and bringing the voices of the athletes to the Executive Board,” said IFSC President Marco Maria Scolaris. “A special thanks goes to Sean McColl for the time he has dedicated to this position over the last years, and will continue to do so as a member of the commission.” The IFSC Athletes’ Commission is currently composed by the following athletes: Shauna Coxsey (GBR) – President, elected in 2021; Anna Tsyganova (RUS) – Member, elected in 2021; Charlotte Durif (FRA) – Member, elected in 2019; Dmitrii Timofeev (RUS) – Member, elected in 2021; Gregor Vezonik (SLO) – Member, elected in 2019; Ievgeniia Kazbekova (UKR) – Member, elected in 2019; Jakob Schubert (AUT) – Member, elected in 2021; Kokoro Fujii (JPN) – Member, elected in 2019; Kyra Condie (USA) – Member, elected in 2019; Michael Piccolruaz (ITA) – Member, elected in 2021; Sean McColl (CAN) – Member, elected in 2021; Stanislav Kokorin (RUS) – Member, elected in 2019; Stasa Gejo (SRB) – Member, elected in 2019.

SPORTS BULLETIN REPORT Moscow (September 22, 2021):-The IFSC Climbing World Championships Moscow 2021 came to a spectacular end tonight, at the Irina Viner-Usmanova Palace, where the men’s and women’s Lead finals closed the six-day competition. At the end of the medal ceremonies, IFSC President Marco Scolaris officially declared the championships closed, receiving the IFSC flag from the hands of CFR President Dmitriy Bychkov, and handing it to Switzerland’s representatives Kevin Hemund and Andrea Kümin. The 2023 IFSC Climbing and Paraclimbing World Championships, indeed, are scheduled to be held in Bern. SCHUBERT’S COLLECTION GETS BIGGER A nail-biting men’s final opened the show, with Tokyo 2020 Olympic bronze medallist Jakob Schubert of Austria eventually claiming his third World Championships title in the Lead discipline – the other two being Paris 2012 and Innsbruck 2018. The 30-year-old experienced athlete was one of two climbers securing the top hold, in a neck-and-neck final where only a couple of moves separated first and fifth place. “I really had to fight hard on this route,” said Schubert. “I didn’t really like the technical part on the slab, I felt like I didn’t climb so well, but somehow I recovered. Obviously, I knew there was a top already, so I knew I had to give everything to reach the top hold. I still don’t know how, but I reached it!” Thanks to his better placement in the men’s Lead semi-final, Schubert placed ahead of Slovenia’s rising star Luka Potocar. For the talented 19-year-old, it is the second international silver medal won in the span of a few weeks, after he placed second in Lead at the IFSC World Cup in Kranj, Slovenia, at the beginning of September. The bronze medal was awarded to Great Britain’s 19-year-old Hamish McArthur, who finished with the score of 46+ and barely missed the chance to duplicate the Lead title he won at the Youth World Championships in Voronezh, Russia, last August. A FLAWLESS WIN FOR SEO There couldn’t have been a better ending to Moscow 2021 than the women’s Lead final. After topping all the routes in the qualification and semi-final rounds, South Korea’s 17-year-old Seo Chaehyun completed her perfect streak by also securing the highest hold in the final round, thus becoming the 2021 Lead world champion in her third season as a senior athlete. “The part at the top felt easy,” commented the seven-time World Cup medallist. “While the lower part was definitely harder. This is my first World Championships gold medal and it is impressive for me!” United States’ Natalia Grossman and Italy’s Laura Rogora, who already placed tied in the semi-final, both followed Seo with the score of 37. The World Championships silver medal was then awarded to Grossman according to her lower climbing time, while Rogora placed third and won bronze. COMPUTED COMBINED RANKINGS RESULTS The men’s computed Combined ranking of Moscow 2021 finished with two German climbers at the top two positions: Yannick Flohé placed first with 9.0, while Philipp Martin took second place with 48.0. The bronze medal went to Ukraine’s Fedir Samoilov with 60.0 points. Austria’s Jessy Pilz placed first in the women’s computed Combined ranking with 20.0 points, preceding Slovenia’s Mia Krampl – second with 36.0 – and Elnaz Rekabi of Iran – third with 42.0. MEDAL TABLE 1. United States of America: one gold, one silver, one bronze; 2. Japan: one gold, one silver; 3. Poland: one gold, one bronze; 4. Austria: one gold; 4. South Korea: one gold; 4. Ukraine: one gold; 7. Italy: one silver, one bronze; 8. CFR: one silver; 8. Slovenia: one silver; 8. Spain: one silver; 11. France: one bronze; 11. Great Britain: one bronze; 11. Serbia: one bronze.

SPORTS BULLETIN REPORT Torino (September 20, 2021):-The International Federation of Sport Climbing (IFSC) and the Korean Alpine Federation announced that the IFSC Boulder and Speed World Cup scheduled in Seoul, South Korea, from 1 to 3 October 2021, has been cancelled. The decision comes as a consequence of the latest restrictions applied in the country to fight the COVID-19 pandemic. The IFSC Paraclimbing World Cup taking place in Los Angeles, USA, on 9 and 10 October is confirmed.

SPORTS BULLETIN REPORT Moscow (September 18, 2021):-The USA’s Natalia Grossman (20) claimed the title of Boulder World Champion at the International Federation of Sport Climbing (IFSC) World Championships this evening in Moscow, Russia. Topping all four problems in the women’s Boulder final, the American earned her ninth medal of the year after a stellar 2021 World Cup season – the first senior World Championship medal of her career, and a gold one at that. Having made the podium of every single IFSC Boulder World Cup so far this year, Grossman came to win tonight in Moscow, annihilating the women’s Boulder final by flashing – using only one attempt – three out of four blocs. On boulder number three – a dynamic jump up to the zone hold and then a delicate dance to traverse across a slab wall – the American secured a top in four attempts, finishing with ease after sticking the ‘dyno’. After placing first in both the qualifying and semi-final rounds, Grossman well and truly earned her place atop the podium following this evening’s final, and was greeted with elation by best friend and teammate Brooke Raboutou (20) as she waltzed away with the win. Italy’s Camilla Moroni (20) also put on a display of sheer skill tonight, topping all four boulders and taking her first senior Sport Climbing medal. Releasing a scream of raw emotion after finding a top on bloc number four, Moroni took the silver medal in addition to the title of Vice World Champion. Although topping the same number of boulders as Grossman, Moroni settled for a successful second place due to using a higher number of attempts than the American. Taking the bronze medal was Serbia’s Stasa Gejo (23) with two tops and four zones, climbing onto a World Championship podium for the second time in her career, after also taking a bronze in Boulder during the 2018 edition of the championships in Innsbruck, Austria. It’s also the second time Gejo has climbed onto a podium in 2021, having won bronze at the IFSC Boulder World Cup in Innsbruck earlier this year. Elena Krasovskaia (21) of the CFR just missed out on a medal in fourth place, with Olympian Brooke Raboutou, of the USA, placing fifth, and Switzerland’s Andrea Kümin (23) closing the final in sixth.

SPORTS BULLETIN REPORT Moscow (September 17, 2021):-The final act of the 2021 IFSC Paraclimbing World Championships went down at the Irina Viner-Usmanova Palace in Moscow, Russia, where 11 World Champion titles have been awarded in a long, emotional night. As the only athlete to achieve a top, Japan’s Aita Sho (25) stole the show in the men’s B1 Paraclimbing final. Sho therefore added a fifth gold medal to his collection, winning 100% of the international Paraclimbing competitions he has competed in. Romania’s Razvan Nedu took the silver medal with a score of 35+, with Great Britain’s Jesse Dufton completing the podium in third place after reaching hold 23. HAMANOUE BAGS GOLD IN MEN’S B2 In the men’s B2 Paraclimbing final, 31-year-old Fumiya Hamanoue of Japan took the top spot on the podium with a score of 40+, upgrading his bronze medal from the 2018 World Championships to a glittering gold in Moscow. Great Britain’s Richard Slocock took silver, followed by Spain’s Raul Simon Franco who finished in third place. The pair both closed the competition with 38+, though Slocock placed above Simon Franco due to ranking first in the qualification round. SECOND WORLD CHAMPIONSHIP TITLE FOR ZELLER Austria’s Angelino Zeller (25) fought to retain his title of World Champion in the men’s RP1 Paraclimbing final, taking the win with 39+. Zeller ranked first in the IFSC Paraclimbing World Championships Briançon 2019, and has had a successful year so far after placing on the podium at the 2021 world cups in Briançon and Innsbruck. The USA’s Tanner Cislaw finished in second place with a score of 26+, whilst Germany’s Korbinian Franck placed third with 18+. MORE MEDALS FOR MOR MICHAEL SAPIR Mor Michael Sapir (30) of Israel added a fourth gold medal to his trophy cabinet in the men’s RP2 Paraclimbing final. Having topped the final route, Sapir secured his eighth international podium position since 2016 – his second World Championship podium after taking silver in 2019. With a score of 45, the USA’s Benjamin Mayforth took the silver medal, and France’s Bastien Thomas ranked third with 39+. FOURTH CONSECUTIVE WORLD CHAMP WIN FOR FRANCE’S ROMAIN PAGNOUX France’s Romain Pagnoux (34) and Mathieu Besnard (35) each obtained a score of 27+ in the men’s RP3 Paraclimbing final. As the pair tied in the qualification round, their ranking was finalised based on their time to complete the final route. Ultimately, it was Pagnoux that took the victory, securing the World Championship title he has held since 2016. Besnard closed in second place, climbing atop the podium for the eighteenth time in his career. Iran’s Iman Edrisi, who tied with the gold and silver medallists in the qualification round, placed third with a score of 23+.  THIERRY DELARUE TRIUMPHANT IN MEN’S AL2 In the men’s AL2 Paraclimbing final, France’s Thierry Delarue (43) triumphed with a score of 23+. Delarue thus maintained his World Championship title, having also placed first during the 2018 and 2019 IFSC Paraclimbing World Championships. Belgium’s Frederik Leys placed second with a score of 16+, matched by Japan’s Shuhei Yukei, who ranked third due to a lower score than Leys in the qualification round. TOP OF THE PODIUM FOR PHILLIPS With a score of 44+, Great Britain’s Matthew Phillips (20) was victorious in the men’s AU2 Paraclimbing final. A gold medal in Moscow seals the third World Championship title for Phillips, who has earned a podium position in all eight of the international Paraclimbing competitions he has participated in. Brian Zarzuela of the USA achieved second place with 35+, followed closely by Germany’s Kevin Bartke with a score of 35. ROBINSON’S THREE-PEAT In the opening women’s B2 event, Great Britain’s 23-year-old Abigail Robinson added the third, consecutive gold medal to her collection, prevailing over Austria’s Edith Scheinecker and Italy’s Nadia Bredice, who respectively placed second and third. The last climber to approach the route, Robinson was the only one able to secure the top hold, with Scheinecker closing with the score of 40+, and Bredice with 35. VANDENHOVEN KEEPS HER 2021 WINNING STREAK ALIVE Belgian rising star Pavitra Vandenhoven (22) put up another spectacular performance, pocketing her first ever World Championships gold medal in the women’s RP1 Paraclimbing event. Vandenhoven – gold medalist at this year’s Paraclimbing World Cup in Innsbruck, Austria, and Briançon, France – secured hold number 37+, slightly ahead of the Netherlands’ Eva Mol, who won silver with 34+. The podium was completed by Spain’s Marta Peche Salinero, bronze medal winner with the score of 13+. TRIPLE CROWN FOR SOLENNE PIRET France’s multi-decorated climber Solenne Piret (23) brought another trophy to her showcase, ruling the women’s RP2 Paraclimbing final and jumping on the first step of the podium for the fourth time in the last four years. Indeed, Piret had won gold at the two latest Paraclimbing World Championships – Innsbruck 2018 and Briançon 2019 – to which, in 2021, she added two World Cup gold medals. Great Britain’s Leanora Volpe followed in second position with 39, while Italy’s Lucia Capovilla struggled midway through the route and took third place with 21. LUCIE JARRIGE POCKETS FRANCE’S FOURTH TITLE OF THE NIGHT The conclusive women’s RP3 event, once again, finished with the French tricolour waving from the highest flagpole, thanks to Lucie Jarrige’s fourth World Championship victory. The 30-year-old athlete climbed all the way up to the top hold, preceding Great Britain’s Martha Evans – second with the score of 33+ – and Austria’s Katharina Ritt – third with 29+. MEDAL TABLE 1. France: four golds, one silver, one bronze; 2. Great Britain: two golds, three silvers, one bronze; 3. Japan: two golds, one bronze; 4. Austria: one gold, one silver, one bronze; 5. Belgium: one gold, one silver; 6. Israel: one gold; 7. United States of America: three silvers; 8. Netherlands: one silver; 8. Romania: one silver; 10. Germany: two bronzes; 10. Italy: two bronzes; 10. Spain: two bronzes; 13. Iran: one bronze. REMEMBERING MELINDA VIGH Shortly before the award ceremonies took place, the Paraclimbing family gathered together to mourn the recent loss of three-time Paraclimbing World Cup medallist Melinda Vigh, the Hungarian climber that tragically lost her life on 7 August. The emotional moment closed with the speeches of IFSC President Marco Scolaris, the Chair of the IFSC Paraclimbing Committee Sebastian Depke, and Melinda’s dear friend Lucia Capovilla of Italy. The 2021 Paraclimbing season will conclude in Los Angeles, USA, where the third World Cup of the season is scheduled to take place on 9 and 10 October.

Sports Bulletin Report MOSCOW (September 17, 2021):-Shortly after being officially declared open by Debra Gawrych, Secretary General of the International Federation of Sport Climbing (IFSC), the 2021 IFSC Climbing World Championships in Moscow, Russia, crowned Danyil Boldyrev of Ukraine and Natalia Kalucka of Poland as the 2021 men’s and women’s Speed world champions. The 29-year-old Ukrainian Speed specialist won the second Speed world title of his multi-decorated career, surviving an extremely tight battle against Italy’s Gian Luca Zodda in the first round – where he won by 0.004 seconds – and prevailing over Kazakh Olympian Rishat Khaibullin and France’s Guillaume Moro in the two following races. In the final, decisive one, the experienced athlete nailed the second fastest time of the whole final, clocking in at 5.73 seconds and beating Spain’s 27-year-old Erik Noya Cardona – who won his very first international medal, in the most important competition. The men’s podium was completed by United States’ Noah Bratschi (21), with Moro finishing in fourth place. In the women’s event, 19-year-old Natalia Kalucka went through a rollercoaster of emotions, eventually finishing on the highest step of the World Championships podium with the gold medal around her neck: her first international medal as a senior athlete. Indeed, in her first race, Kalucka fought and beat her twin sister Aleksandra, who recently returned to compete after a long break caused by an injury on her left leg. After winning her quarterfinal against Elizaveta Ivanova of the CFR, in the semi-final and final rounds, the young Polish climber had to face two Tokyo 2020 Olympians, and holders of the fastest times in the world: Aleksandra Miroslaw of Poland, and Iuliia Kaplina of the CFR. Despite a fall by Miroslaw, and a slip by Kaplina, Natalia Kalucka didn’t take anything for granted in the two final races, sealing her semi-final win with the fantastic time of 7.07 seconds – her new personal best – and signing off with 7.18 in the race for the gold medal. In the small final, Miroslaw claimed bronze, placing third with the time of 7.00 seconds against Ekaterina Barashchuk of the CFR.

Sports Bulletin Report MOSCOW (September 16, 2021): The International Federation of Sport Climbing (IFSC) World Championships 2021 officially opened in Moscow, Russia, this evening, with distinguished guests and a combination of dancers, music, and a mesmerising display of lights welcoming masked spectators to the Irina Viner-Usmanova Gymnastics Palace. Lights and lasers opened the show to an electric mix of music, with the words ‘fastest’, ‘highest’, and ‘strongest’ projected on the climbing walls to depict the three Sport Climbing disciplines of Speed, Lead, and Boulder. Dancers then took to the stage, with giant glittering flower petals in the centre of the performance opening to reveal a spectacular, contorted figure inside. Opening ceremony hosts expressed their gratitude to the IFSC, CFR, and to the Moscow Department of Sports that the 18th edition of the Climbing World Championships is taking place in Moscow. In addition to championships in Boulder, Lead, and Speed, the city will also this week welcome the Paraclimbing World Championships, with qualifications already complete and finals taking place tomorrow evening. A total of 301 climbers will participate in the Climbing World Championships from 16 to 21 September (188 in Boulder, 178 in Lead, and 99 in Speed), and 114 are competing in the Paraclimbing World Championships from 15 to 17 September. Flag bearers paraded the stage on behalf of each of the 44 nationalities participating in the IFSC Climbing and Paraclimbing World Championships. Esteemed guests were next invited to share their words, including First Deputy Head of the Moscow Department of Sports and Olympic champion Svetlana Bazhanova, President of the ROC and four-time Olympic champion, CFR President Dmitrii Bychkov, and IFSC Secretary General Debra Gawrych. Each welcomed the championships to Moscow in front of an arena of masked and socially-distanced spectators, thanking all those involved for their perseverance in making the competition happen during the pandemic. Determination and hope were key themes throughout the opening speeches, with Sport Climbing also being congratulated on its successful Olympic debut at the Olympic Games Tokyo 2020 this August. “We dreamed of this moment and despite the pandemic and lockdowns, here we are,” said CFR President Dmitrii Bychkov. “It is heartening to share this with some of the best Sport Climbing athletes, as well as those watching around the globe. Thanks to the IFSC for making it happen.” “It took time for Sport Climbing to become an Olympic sport, but you persevered and now we are here. What an incredible show in Tokyo and there is an incredible future for Sport Climbing. I wish continued success to the athletes and hope everyone enjoys the show,” said the President of the ROC. IFSC Secretary General Debra Gawrych talked of the triumphs of Sport Climbing in spite of the pandemic, and expressed her appreciation to those who have helped Sport Climbing achieve the Olympic dream, before officially declaring the 2021 IFSC Climbing and Paraclimbing World Championships open.

Sports Bulletin TORINO (September 10, 2021): The International Federation of Sport Climbing (IFSC) and the Indonesian Sport Climbing Federation (FPTI) are disappointed to announce that the IFSC Speed World Cup scheduled in Jakarta, Indonesia, on 30 and 31 October 2021, has been cancelled as a result of the ongoing COVID-19 pandemic. Therefore, the IFSC World Cup taking place from 1 to 3 October in Seoul, South Korea, will be the closing chapter of both the 2021 Boulder and Speed season. “It is heartbreaking to make this decision,” said IFSC President Marco Scolaris. “The IFSC and the Sport Climbing community were eager to finally bring the international Sport Climbing circuit in Indonesia. My gratitude goes to the FPTI, and President Yenny Wahid, for their valuable collaboration and effort. I am sure that the debut of the IFSC World Cup Series in Indonesia is only postponed, we will be there next year!”