Sports Bulletin

SPORTS NEWS Tokyo (August 3, 2021):-For the very first time in history, Sport Climbing athletes today participated in an Olympic Games, as the sport made its long-anticipated debut at Tokyo 2020. A total of 20 climbers took to the Olympic walls within Tokyo’s Aomi Urban Sports Park, competing in the Men’s Combined qualification event for a spot in Thursday’s final. First on the agenda was Speed, where France’s Bassa Mawem triumphed and took the men’s Speed Olympic Record with a time of 5.45 seconds – just 0.25 seconds shy of the current World Record. Joining the sub-six-second scores were Mawem’s younger brother, Mickael, with 5.95 seconds, and Japan’s Tomoa Narasaki, who chose not to climb a second time after stopping the clock at 5.94 in his first run. After placing third in the Speed round, Mickael Mawem put on another stellar performance in Boulder by achieving three tops and four zones. Securing first place, the French athlete positioned himself firmly at the top of the Combined table with a score of three, followed closely by Narasaki with four points. The pair were the only two athletes to find a solution to the second of four blocs, which mixed together a concoction of balance and strength. The Czech Republic’s Adam Ondra closed the Boulder round in third place with two tops and three zones. When asked his thoughts on Sport Climbing’s debut at the Olympic Games, Ondra said: “It's a big step for Sport Climbing. In the world of the competition, it's been a big dream for years, and climbing deserves to be here as a sport. Unfortunately there's only one set of medals, but it will be a good stepping stone for the future where hopefully it will be all three single disciplines." The Men’s Combined qualification round concluded with Lead, with Austria’s Jakob Schubert taking the top spot with a score of 42+, matched by Colin Duffy of the USA. Spain’s Alberto Ginés López reached 41+, therefore closing the Lead round as the only other athlete to climb above hold 40. When asked about the conditions during the competition – over 30°C and 80% humidity – Duffy said: "It was definitely in the back of my head, the fact that I'm not really used to finding this much humidity. Lead is a really unforgiving discipline, one slip or just one small mistake and you’re off. But I was able to just kind of put it in the back of my head and get in my zone and just do what I do best, which is just climb." Despite placing 11th in Lead, Mickael Mawem bagged himself an unbeatable birthday present: the top position in the Combined ranking and thus, a spot in the final. His brother Bassa faced an unfortunate bicep injury during the Lead round, falling at hold seven. However, thanks to his first place in Speed, Mawem achieved a place in the final alongside his younger sibling. An update on his condition will be given in the morning once he has been assessed by his medical team. Following today’s qualification, the following eight Olympians will head into the Men’s Combined Final this Thursday: 1. Mickael Mawem (FRA) 2. Tomoa Narasaki (JPN) 3. Colin Duffy (USA) 4. Jakob Schubert (AUT) 5. Adam Ondra (CZE) 6. Alberto Ginés López (ESP) 7. Bassa Mawem (FRA) 8. Nathaniel Coleman (USA) When asked about participating in his first Olympic Games – the very first in which Sport Climbing has been featured on the programme – Ginés López said: "Everything is amazing. Every day is amazing. I'm so excited to be here, to compete in a few days." Next up on Sport Climbing’s Olympic schedule is the women’s Combined qualification, which will take place tomorrow, 4 August, from 5:00 PM (UTC+9:00). The men’s Combined final is scheduled for 5 August, with the women’s Combined final taking place on 6 August.

SPORTS DESK ISLAMABAD (July 13, 2021):-Originally scheduled to take place in the Slovenian capital of Ljubljana, the IFSC Lead World Cup in September is now to be held 20 kilometres away in Kranj, Slovenia – the 25th time a Sport Climbing World Cup has been hosted in the country’s third-largest city. As a result of the venue relocation, the first World Cup following the Olympic Games Tokyo 2020 is now set to take place from 3 to 4 September, as opposed to 4 to 5 September as initially listed on the 2021 IFSC calendar. With four Slovenian athletes making finals in the first two Lead world cups of the season and Slovenia’s very own star Janja Garnbret claiming the top podium position at each, the penultimate Lead World Cup of 2021 on the team’s home soil will be a must-see. At the 2019 Lead World Cup in Kranj, Slovenia’s Lucka Rakovec took home bronze; Will the 20-year-old earn another medal this year?

SPORTS DESK ISLAMABAD (July 5, 2021):-At the end of a weekend consistently affected by variable weather, rain, and humidity, the IFSC World Cup in Villars, Switzerland, concluded with two exciting Lead finals, where Team USA representatives Sean Bailey and Colin Duffy occupied two thirds of the men’s podium, respectively placing first and third. As none of the eight male participants secured the top hold, Bailey – Boulder gold medalist at this year’s World Cup in Salt Lake City, USA – concluded with 38, and is now the only male climber able to secure the brightest medal in both the Boulder and Lead disciplines. Participating in his first Lead final round ever, Duffy secured the bronze medal with 31+. The podium was completed by German Olympian Alexander Megos, who finished with 35+ and won the sixth World Cup medal of his career. A second German finalist, Sebastian Halenke, finished in fourth place with 26.5+; while Alberto Gines Lopez of Spain took fifth with 26.5. France’s first time finalist Paul Janft followed in sixth position with 26, while Japan’s Masahiro Higuchi and Zento Murashita concluded at the bottom of the ranking, taking seventh and eight places with 12 and 11+ In the women’s final, after they both clipped at the top of the route, Slovenian superstar Janja Garnbret prevailed over Italy’s Laura Rogora thanks to her better placement in the semi-final. It is the fourth World Cup gold medal out of five participations in 2021 for Garnbret, who will now pause from competitions to focus on her preparation for the Olympic Games. Rogora’s silver, on the other hand, is only her second World Cup medal ever, with the first one being a Lead gold she won in Briançon in August 2020 – where she managed to beat Garnbret herself. The fantastic night of team USA was completed with Natalia Grossman’s bronze medal – the fifth of her season – that she secured with a stunning 42+. Just outside of the podium, Japan’s Momoko Abe placed fourth with 40+, followed by Slovenia’s Vita Lukan, who placed fifth also with 40+. First-time finalist Aleksandra Totkova of Bulgaria finished in sixth position with 33+; Slovenia’s Lucka Rakovec placed seventh with 17+; and Mia Krampl, the fourth Slovenian climber in the final, finished at the bottom of the ranking, also with 17+. The 2021 IFSC World Cup Series will now move to Chamonix, France, where the next IFSC Lead World Cup is scheduled from 12 to 13 July.

SPORTS DESK ISLAMABAD (May 12, 2021):-With under three months to go to the Olympic Games Tokyo, the International Federation of Sport Climbing (IFSC) has announced new broadcasting agreements with four partners. The new deals will see an increase in coverage of IFSC competitions. With an eye to increasing the digital footprint of IFSC competitions, Zhibo.tv in China has acquired exclusive digital rights with a commitment to broadcast all IFSC competitions live or delayed for the 2021 and 2022 seasons in the territory of China. The deal also includes non-exclusive rights for the 2021 World Championships and the IFSC events taking place in China. As one of the biggest sports-only digital platforms in China, Zhibo.tv continues to develop digital partnerships worldwide and the agreement with the IFSC adds another leading International Federation to its growing list of clients. Commenting on the new broadcast partnerships, IFSC President Marco Scolaris said: “With live sport returning to the global sporting calendar, we have seen increased demand for rights to show our competitions and we are delighted to welcome these partners to the IFSC for the 2021 season. We are confident that these partnerships will provide climbing fans around the world a more comprehensive offering of our events. I would like to extend our gratitude to all our Member Federations and local organisers, for their outstanding, tireless work; and to our athletes, who are always able to compete at the highest level, despite the many difficulties.”

SPORTS DESK ISLAMABAD (April 1, 2021):-The International Federation of Sport Climbing (IFSC) hit another important milestone today, as it reached an agreement with the European Olympic Committees (EOC) for the inclusion of Sport Climbing in the program of the next edition of the European Games, set to take place in Krakow, Poland, in June 2023. The agreement adds up to the ones the IFSC recently signed with other main continental sports organisation – such as European Championships Management and Pan American Sports – setting up for Sport Climbing’s debut on major multi-sport stages like the European Championships Munich 2022 and the Pan American Games Santiago 2023. “Together with the IFSC European Council we decided to grab the great opportunity to see our sport on the prestigious of the European Games Krakow 2023,” commented IFSC President Marco Scolaris. “Just few weeks after the inclusion in the Pan American Games, we are confident that this new step up will strengthen the relationship between our National Federations and their National Olympic Committees, much to the benefit of the global growth of our sport.” “Sport Climbing is an appealing sport for all and easy to start,” added IFSC Olympic and Multi-Sport Games Director Jerome Meyer. “We can observe that popularity across all the world climbing places, that is not only a new sport but a whole community that will be joining the 2023 European Games.” “Sport Climbing and Triathlon are two exciting Olympic sports that we are thrilled to welcome to the 2023 European Games,” said Chair of the Coordination Commission for the European Games 2023 Hasan Arat. “Both sports are fan favourites, and they join an already solid line-up of sports for 2023 that we are confident will be the most comprehensive and innovative yet for a European Games.” Alongside the upcoming editions of the European Championships, European Games and Pan American Games, Sport Climbing has been included in the Asian Games programme in 2018, and represents a touchstone of The World Games since 2005. Krakow 2023 will be the third edition of the European Games, following up from the ones organised in Baku, Azerbaijan, in 2015, and Minsk, Belarus, in 2019.

SPORTS DESK ISLAMABAD (March 24, 2021):-The International Federation of Sport Climbing (IFSC) and USA Climbing jointly announced that the third Paraclimbing World Cup of 2021 would be taken place this 9 and 10 October in Los Angeles, USA, host city of the 2028 Olympic and Paralympic Games. The announcement marks a major achievement for both the IFSC and the Paraclimbing community, and was one of the key goals of the IFSC Strategic Plan 2020-2028, presented and unanimously approved at the XVI IFSC Plenary Assembly. The Strategic Plan called for the inclusion of Paraclimbing on the sports programme of the Paralympic Games Los Angeles 2028 – with the application deadline in the fourth quarter of 2021. This will be the second IFSC competition organised in the City of Angels in the last two years, following a very successful IFSC Pan American Championships in February and March 2020 at the Sender One Climbing Gym – the same venue that will welcome the IFSC Paraclimbing World Cup this October. Los Angeles beat out a number of excellent bids from other US candidate cities to host the competition. The 2021 Paraclimbing calendar also includes Paraclimbing world cups in Innsbruck, Austria and Briançon, France, with the IFSC Paraclimbing World Championships scheduled to take place in Moscow, Russia from 15 to 22 September. IFSC President Marco Scolaris said: “The confirmation of this event in Los Angeles is the cherry on top of an amazing Paraclimbing season. Against all adverse circumstances, still existing because of the pandemic, we’ll give everything to keep our hopes so high.” Sebastian Depke, Chair of the IFSC Paraclimbing Committee, said: “It is definitely a good sign to have a Paraclimbing Word Cup in Los Angeles, where the 2028 Paralympic Games that we aim to apply for will take place. We are thankful to the IFSC and the whole USA Climbing organisation for their commitment in holding the first-ever Paraclimbing World Cup on US-soil.” Marc Norman, Chief Executive Officer at USA Climbing, said: “We are thrilled to be hosting an IFSC Paraclimbing World Cup stop at Sender One at LAX. The Sender One team is phenomenal, and their facilities are world class, providing an event on par with the level of athletes. Hosting this important Paraclimbing World Cup in the United States and Los Angeles is an incredible opportunity to introduce the amazing Paraclimbing event and its athletes to the Organising Committee of the 2028 Olympic and Paralympic Games. We thank the IFSC for the opportunity and look forward to a great event hosted by Sender One and to watching the Paraclimbing athletes show us all what is possible.” Maureen Beck, Chair of USA Climbing’s Paraclimbing Committee, said: "After years of competing overseas, I could not be more elated for the US to stage an IFSC Paraclimbing World Cup. It's an honor to be able to host our climbing family from overseas and show them the momentum that USAC has built for the Paraclimbing community." Alice Kao, Chief Executive Officer of Sender One Climbing Gym, said: "Even though this has been one of the most trying years I can remember, when Marc asked me if Sender One would host a Paraclimbing world cup, we didn't hesitate to say yes. We all remember what we felt during the Pan-American Championships. I think we could all use some inspiration and joy."

SPORTS REPORT NALTAR (January 21, 2021):-Waqar Junior’s outstanding run in both Slalom and Giant Slalom events helped Gilgit Baltistan (GB) Scouts to lift the Chairman Joint Chiefs of Staff Committee (CJCSC) Alpine Ski Cup 2021 at Pakistan Air Force (PAF) Ski Resort, Naltar on Thursday. He was in supreme form in both Slalom and Giant Slalom races, and grabbed gold and silver medals in both categories respectively.  In the Slalom category, former Olympian Mohammad Abbas from Pakistan Air Force had a wonderful day on the slope and earned the gold medal in the respective category. The silver medal in Slalom was won by GB Scouts’s Waqar Junior, while Noor Mohammad from Pakistan Army claimed the bronze medal. Gilgit Baltistan Scouts also dominated in the Giant Slalom category, besides Waqar Junior’s gold, the silver and bronze medals were also won by his teammates Sajjad Ahmad and Waqas Azam respectively. Teams of PAF, Pakistan Army, GB Scouts, Swat, Punjab, Balochistan, Sindh, Islamabad, Azad Jammu & Kashmir (AJK), Higher Education Commission (HEC), Civil Aviation Authority (CAA) and Alpine Club of Pakistan (ACP) participated in the top national ski event.

Sports Desk ISLAMABAD (April 24, 2020):-The 2020 IFSC European Championships in Moscow (RUS) have been officially rescheduled in October. The championships, which were initially supposed to take place from March 20 to 27, had been previously moved to the month of June, but due to the growing complications caused by the pandemic of COVID-19, the event was forcedly postponed a second time. However, IFSC Europe, alongside the IFSC Sport Department and the Climbing Federation of Russia, kept working tirelessly throughout these very hard times, in order to find the best and safest solution for athletes, team officials, organisers, volunteers and fans, and finally set the appointment from October 1 to 8. The competition will award two quota places for Tokyo 2020 – one per gender, and the selection of the athletes that will battle for the Olympic slot in the Combined Qualifier will be based on their results within the three disciplines. The IFSC European Championships in Moscow will be the second continental championships organised in 2020, after the Pan American one was held in Los Angeles (USA) from February 24 to March 1, qualifying Canada’s Alannah Yip and United States’ Colin Duffy for the Tokyo 2020 Olympic Games. IFSC President Marco Scolaris said: “I’m sure the IOC won’t mind if I borrow their motto for a moment: hope lights our way! Despite the fact that we live on a day-by-day basis, it is important to keep working for the future, in order to be ready when better days will come. The new dates of the European Championships are definitely a sign of hope and no surrender.” CFR President Dmitry Bychkov said: “We are all hoping for the best, and we are ready - with a successful combination of circumstances - to produce every effort and deliver the competition at the best possible level. All of us, organisers and fans, are willing to be finally able to see the best European athletes compete in Moscow.”

    By Abdul Jabbar Faisal ISLAMABAD (December 29, 2019):-Gilgit Baltistan Ski Association has won the Saadia Khan Ski Cup 2019 that was held at Pakistan Air Force (PAF) Ski Resort, Naltar. In the Under-14 and Under-16 events, Gilgit Baltistan athletes clinched the trophies while PAF won the trophies in the Boys Under-14 and Under-16 discipline of Ice Hockey. The winners were awarded trophies. In the women’s slalom category, Umaima Wali was awarded gold medal whereas Jiya Ali got silver medal. In the children ski competition, Girls’ Under-14 slalom, Mishal Hussain won the gold medal while Marrium Iqbal was awarded silver medal. In Boys’ ’’s Under-16 Saifullah won gold medal while Zubair Ali got silver medal. The gold medal in Boys’ Under-14 slalom category was clinched by Zaman Ali, while Zahir Ullah got silver medal. In the women’s giant slalom category, Khusheen Sahiba won the gold medal whereas Humaima Wali was awarded silver medal. In Skating Boys category-I Mohammad Iqbal was awarded the gold medal. In 2nd Speed Skating competition girls Under-12 Mishal Hussain won gold medal. In girls under-16 Minhal Aziz was awarded gold medal. In master category Khusheen Sahiba won the gold medal. Mubashir, Saifullah and Zia ur Rehman in under 12, under 16 and master category were awarded gold medals in their respective categories. On Sunday, a prize distribution ceremony was held, as the Air Marshal Javad Saeed Deputy Chief of the Air Staff (Administration) attended as chief guest. A large number of civil and military officials were present at the ceremony. Skiers from different Ski Associations, from all across Pakistan participated in the championship. At the end chief guest distributed medals and trophies among the players in different disciplines.